National Palace of Mafra

Mafra is where the wealth of eighteenth-century Portugal turned into stone. The National Palace of Mafra, a former royal summer residence, basilica and library, was built in the eighteenth century on the orders of King John V, and the ticketing page describes it as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a notable example of Portuguese Baroque architecture. It stands at Terreiro D. João V in the town of Mafra, roughly 30 km from Lisbon, and its sheer scale is the first thing that strikes you: a long, pale facade that dominates the town square, with the twin-towered basilica at its centre. Inside, the complex is as much a monastery as a palace, and the visit takes you through royal apartments, long corridors, the basilica and, above all, the library. The library hall is more than 85 metres long and is lined with tiers of carved shelves; one local source describes about thirty thousand titles, and the Telegraph has called it one of the world's most spectacular libraries. Access to read the books is limited to researchers, but visitors can look into the hall. The ticketing listing shows opening hours from 09:30 to 17:30 on every day except Tuesday, when the palace is closed. Mafra attracts a fraction of the visitors that Sintra does, so it is a good choice for travellers who want grandeur at a calmer pace, or who have already seen Pena and the Sintra palaces.

Mafra is about 30 km from Lisbon, and visitors usually go by bus, car or an organised tour, so check current transport options and timetables before you leave. Remember that the palace is closed on Tuesdays, according to the booking page, so choose another day.

In winter the unheated halls can be chilly, so bring a layer. The Lisboa Card route is worth comparing with the single ticket if you plan other museums in the same days, but do the sums for your own itinerary first, because a card only pays off when you use it enough.