Ljubljana Old Town

Ljubljana’s old town is small, green and almost entirely free of cars, and it is a pleasure to walk at any hour. Everything starts at Prešeren Square, named after the national poet France Prešeren, whose statue faces the window of his muse across the square, beside the pink Franciscan Church. From here Plečnik’s Triple Bridge fans across the Ljubljanica into the medieval streets below the castle hill. Follow the river past the long colonnades of the Central Market, also by Plečnik, to the Dragon Bridge, guarded by the copper dragons that are the city’s symbol. Back across the water, the cathedral of St Nicholas, the town hall and the Baroque Robba Fountain anchor the old town proper, while cafes line both banks. This page links to a two-hour Tiqets guided tour of the city centre and castle, an easy way to get the history and the best routes on day one.

How to see it: walk a loop from Prešeren Square over the Triple Bridge, along the market colonnades to the Dragon Bridge, then back along the opposite bank through Mestni trg and Stari trg, the old town squares. The Cobblers’ Bridge and the riverside terraces of Breg and Trnovo are short extensions. If you prefer a guide, the Tiqets tour covers the centre on foot and continues up to the castle.

What to expect: the outdoor Central Market is busiest in the mornings, especially on Saturdays, and in the warmer months the Open Kitchen street-food market fills Pogačar Square on Fridays. The riverside cafes are lively from spring to autumn; in December the old town is strung with festive lights and stalls. The centre is pedestrianised, and small electric shuttles called Kavalir carry those who need help with distances.

Making the most of it: go early for the market and the quiet bridges, then return at dusk when the river terraces fill. Plečnik’s work here is part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing, and noticing his columns, lamps and stairways turns a stroll into a lesson in how one architect shaped a capital.