Jungfraujoch, Top of Europe

The Jungfraujoch is a saddle between the Mönch and the Jungfrau in the Bernese Oberland, and its station, at about 3,454 metres, is the highest railway station in Europe. The Jungfrau Railway, opened in 1912 after sixteen years of work, climbs the last stretch through a tunnel bored inside the Eiger and the Mönch, with short stops at windows in the rock face. At the top, the Jungfraujoch complex holds viewing terraces, an ice palace carved into the glacier, an observatory on the Sphinx rock and restaurants, and a short walk across the snow plateau. The panorama takes in the Aletsch Glacier, the longest in the Alps, flowing south in a great white river, with the peaks of the Bernese Alps all around and, on a clear day, the Black Forest and the Vosges far away to the north. The visit is often called the Top of Europe, a name that turns up on every sign and ticket. From Lucerne it is a full day, usually by train via Interlaken, with a change to the mountain railways at Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen, and the gondola from Grindelwald Terminal to Eigergletscher makes the journey faster than it used to be.

It is a big day, so it helps to be realistic. Lucerne to Interlaken takes around two hours by scenic train, then the mountain railways add around two hours more to reach the Joch, so you spend a good part of the day travelling. A day trip from Lucerne typically leaves in the early morning and returns in the evening, and you will have two to three hours on the summit.

Many visitors prefer to buy the ticket for the mountain section and travel to the valley by train on their own, which keeps the plan flexible and lets you choose the best weather day. Others join a guided trip with transport from Lucerne and avoid having to organise the connections.

On the summit, spend the first twenty minutes outdoors if the weather is clear, because clouds can arrive quickly. The Plateau, the snowfield beside the buildings, gives you the wide view and the chance to stand in real snow, and the Sphinx terrace gives the highest viewpoint.

The Ice Palace is a series of tunnels carved into the glacier with ice sculptures, and the exhibitions inside the complex tell the story of how the railway was built. There is a shop that sells watches and chocolate, and restaurants that serve lunch, though prices are high at this altitude.

Altitude is real. At 3,454 metres some people feel breathless, dizzy or headachy, especially if they climb stairs fast or have a heart or lung condition. Walk slowly, drink water, eat lightly and take it easy on the snow. Dress warmly, because the temperature at the top is far below the valley, and bring sunglasses and sun cream for the glare.

The weather decides the whole experience, so check the live webcams and the forecast the evening before and again in the morning. If the top is in cloud, delay the trip by a day if you can.

Is it worth it? On a clear day, many visitors rate it as the most spectacular outing in Switzerland, and it is the best way to see real high mountains. It is expensive, and it is long, so if you only have a day or two in Lucerne you may prefer Titlis, Pilatus or Rigi, which are closer and cheaper. If your plans include the Bernese Oberland, a night in Interlaken or Grindelwald makes the day more relaxed.