Rhine Falls

The Rhine Falls, the Rheinfall, are the largest waterfall in Europe by volume of water, a wide curtain of the young Rhine breaking over a rocky ledge about twenty-three metres high and roughly a hundred and fifty metres across. They sit on the Swiss side of the border near Schaffhausen in the north of the country, just over an hour from Lucerne by road, and they have drawn travellers since the days of the Grand Tour. The flow changes with the season: in summer, when snowmelt feeds the river, the falls are at their strongest, and in winter they are quieter but still impressive. Spray rises in a cloud above the rapids, and in the right light a rainbow forms over the basin. A tall rock stands in the middle of the cascade, and in season boats run out from the shore to land visitors on a platform on it, which is the closest you can come to the water. A castle on one bank and a series of walkways and viewing points on both banks give different angles on the falls.

The best way to understand the falls is to see them from several places. On the south bank, a path leads down from Laufen Castle to a series of terraces and platforms that carry you almost into the spray, with a lift and steps to help on the way back up. On the north bank, the park near Neuhausen gives a wider view across the water from a little further back, which many people find the more complete picture.

A boat trip is the highlight for most visitors: small boats run across the basin and past the base of the cascade, and some stop at the central rock so you can climb the steps to a platform in the middle of the roar. Boats usually run in the warmer months, with fewer departures or none in winter, so check before you plan around them.

From Lucerne the falls are a long day trip rather than a short one. By train you travel via Zurich and Schaffhausen or Neuhausen, which takes about an hour and a half to two hours each way with a change, and by road it is just over an hour in good traffic.

Many visitors join a guided trip that combines the falls with Zurich, so the day ends in the city with a short tour of the old town. A private day tour from Lucerne is another option for groups who want flexibility, and it suits families and small parties who want to set their own pace.

What to expect when you get there: noise, mist and crowds in summer, especially at weekends, when the platforms and the boats can be busy. Bring a waterproof jacket for the platforms nearest the water, and shoes with grip for the wet steps. The free viewing areas on both banks are open all day, while the boats, the lift and the platform at the rock are paid extras. There is a small cluster of cafés and restaurants near the falls, and a castle terrace with a view.

Why go? Because it shows a different Switzerland: not peaks and glaciers, but raw river power on the flat northern plain. It is a good choice for a cloudy day when the mountains are hidden, since the falls look dramatic in any weather and the spray makes a good photograph in grey light. If you are travelling on to Zurich or to Germany, it makes a sensible stop on the way, and it combines well with a visit to the old town of Schaffhausen.