Antsirabe

Antsirabe is a highland town about three to four hours' drive south of Antananarivo, and it is the usual first stop on the road toward Ranomafana and Isalo. It was founded in the nineteenth century by Norwegian missionaries who were drawn by the cool climate and the thermal springs, and the town still has a distinctive character, with wide avenues, a grand railway station and Art Deco buildings from the colonial period. The most famous sight is the fleet of colourful pousse-pousse rickshaws that carry passengers along the streets, and a ride in one is a classic way to get around town. A walking tour reveals the town's other sides. Guides lead visitors to craft workshops where artisans turn zebu horn into jewellery, make miniature vehicles from recycled tin, cut and polish gemstones and weave embroidered textiles. There are markets full of fruit and vegetables, a lake with views of the volcanic hills and the old thermal baths, and cafes and bakeries that reflect the town's mix of influences. Antsirabe is cooler than most of the country, and the mild air is a pleasant break after the heat and bustle of the capital.

A tour of Antsirabe suits a half day, which makes it easy to combine with the drive south. Many travellers spend a night here to break the long road, and a guided walk in the afternoon is a gentle way to stretch the legs. A guide is useful for explaining the history and for introducing you to workshops, where the craftspeople are happy to show how the pieces are made.

There is no obligation to buy, but buying directly supports local families, so carry small notes and ask the price before you agree to a purchase.

The pousse-pousse drivers are a feature of town life, and rides are normally negotiated in advance. Agree the fare and the route before you sit down, and consider giving a tip for good service. The riders pull the carts on foot, so be mindful of hills and the weight of luggage, and some visitors prefer to walk the flat sections. A short ride between the main sights gives a sense of the pace of life without placing a heavy burden on the driver.

Antsirabe is high enough to be chilly in the evenings, especially in the cooler months, so pack a warm layer. The rainy season brings showers and muddy streets, but the town is easy to navigate and most workshops are indoors. Combine the walk with a visit to the lake, a stop at one of the old thermal buildings and a meal of local specialities, and allow time to browse the markets, which are lively in the morning.

If you are travelling on to Ranomafana or Isalo, check road conditions and allow plenty of time for the next leg.

Finally, think about the road. The drive south from the capital is winding and busy with trucks, and leaving early makes the day easier. A walk in the afternoon, a relaxed dinner and an early night before the next stretch of road is a sensible rhythm, and the town has simple hotels and restaurants to suit most budgets, so it is easy to arrange once you arrive.