Santana is a farming village on the green, rain-fed north-east coast of Madeira, about an hour by road from Funchal, and it is famous for a house that looks like no other in Portugal. The traditional casas de colmo are small A-frame cottages with steep thatched roofs that reach nearly to the ground, painted in bright colours with red, white and blue doors and shutters. They were built by farming families as simple, cheap homes that shed rain and kept their occupants cool in summer and warm in winter, and the style was typical of this part of the island for generations. Only a modest number survive in daily use today, and several have been restored as museums or craft shops, while a handful of reconstructed houses near the village centre are set up for visitors in a small themed park. Santana is also the gateway to some of Madeira’s finest scenery. The surrounding fields are terraced with vegetables and vines, the laurel forest of the Laurissilva rises behind the village, and the dramatic north coast cliffs stretch away on both sides. Most visitors see Santana as part of a full-day tour of the east, with a stop at Pico do Arieiro before or after.
How to get there
Santana is on the north-east side of the island, linked to Funchal by a fast road that includes several long tunnels. The drive takes around an hour each way, and public buses are slow and infrequent, so most visitors travel on a guided tour by jeep or minibus, which usually combines Santana with the high peaks, a levada viewpoint and a stop on the north coast. If you hire a car, the village is straightforward to reach on the expressway, and parking is easy, but remember that the north can be cloudy and damp even when Funchal is sunny.
What to expect
The houses are small, so a visit to the village centre takes about an hour. You can walk around the painted cottages, look inside one of the houses to see how families lived, buy local crafts, wicker and honey cake, and have coffee in a café with a view of the thatched roofs. A handful of houses have been preserved with their original layout, with a single main room, a loft for sleeping and a tiny kitchen.
The setting in the green hills makes for good photographs, especially when the light is soft in the morning or late afternoon. Families with children often enjoy the small theme park and the chance to see the animals and gardens, though it is more of a quick stop than a full-day attraction.
Making the most of it
Combine Santana with a walk on one of the nearby levadas, such as the Caldeirão Verde route, or with the viewpoint at Faial and the rocky headland at Porto da Cruz. Take a light waterproof layer because the north-east coast is the wettest part of the island. If you prefer a quieter time, go in the morning before tour buses arrive.
Check the opening times of any house museum you want to enter, and bring cash for small purchases. If you are limited to a few days on the island, Santana is a good choice for a first full-day tour of the east, because it gives a taste of traditional rural life alongside the more famous mountain scenery.
What to expect
The experience
A short stop in a village of painted thatched A-frame houses, usually part of a full-day guided tour of the east and north-east of the island.
Best time
Morning, when it is quietest and the light is good, ideally on a dry day because the north-east is often damp.
How long
About an hour in the village, or a full day as part of an east-side tour.
Tips
Take a light waterproof layer, carry a little cash for crafts and cake, and check opening times for any house museum you want to enter.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Visitors who want a taste of traditional island life alongside the mountain scenery.
- Families
- Colourful houses and a small themed park make an easy stop for children on a long day out.
- Couples
- Combine the village with a levada walk and a quiet coastal lunch.
- Pair with
- Pico do Arieiro, the Faial viewpoint, Porto da Cruz and a levada walk in the laurel forest.
- Time needed
- A full day with transport.
Good questions
Where are the thatched houses in Madeira?+
They are in Santana, a village on the north-east coast about an hour from Funchal. A few others survive elsewhere on the island, but Santana is the best known.
How do I get to Santana from Funchal?+
Most visitors go on a guided jeep or minibus tour, which usually includes Pico do Arieiro. With a hire car you can drive in about an hour on the expressway.
How long do you need in Santana?+
About an hour is enough to see the painted houses, visit a house museum and have coffee. The full tour day is longer because of the drive.
Are people still living in the thatched houses?+
A small number are still in use, but most surviving examples are preserved as museums, craft shops and tourist attractions.
Is Santana worth visiting in wet weather?+
The north-east is the wettest part of the island, so bring a waterproof layer. The houses are still photogenic in mist, and the cafés give shelter.
