Marsaxlokk and the Blue Grotto

Marsaxlokk, in the southeast of Malta, is the island’s best-known fishing village, and a short walk along its waterfront shows why. The harbour is crowded with luzzus, the traditional wooden fishing boats painted in bright blues, yellows, reds and greens, with a pair of eyes on the prow said to descend from an ancient Phoenician symbol of protection. Behind the quay, a promenade is lined with fish restaurants and cafés, nets are spread out to dry and fishermen mend their gear as they have for generations. On Sundays, a lively market sets up along the front, selling fish, vegetables, lace, souvenirs and local honey, and it draws crowds of locals as well as visitors. The Blue Grotto, a short drive west on the southern coast near Żurrieq, is Malta’s best-known natural attraction. Here the cliffs are pierced with a series of sea caves and arches, and small boats leave from the little harbour at Wied iż-Żurrieq to take visitors on a short trip along the cliffs and into the caverns. When the sun is in the right position, the water inside glows in shades of electric blue and turquoise, lit from below by sunlight reflecting off the white sand and rock. The ride takes about half an hour, with the boatman pointing out the main caves, and on a good day it is one of the most beautiful short excursions on the island.

The best time for the Blue Grotto is the morning, when the sun lights the caves most strongly, and the boats run only when the sea is calm enough, so a windy day or rough swell can cancel departures. It is wise to treat the trip as weather-dependent and keep some flexibility. The viewpoint above the harbour is free and beautiful in itself, with views of the cliffs and, on a clear day, the little islet of Filfla, so even if the boats are not running you will not go home empty-handed.

Marsaxlokk is lovely at any time but is at its liveliest on Sunday morning, when the market is in full swing and the streets fill with families. If you prefer a quieter visit, go on a weekday, when you can wander the waterfront and sit down to a plate of fresh fish without the crowds. Look out for the day’s catch, which in season may include lampuki, swordfish, sea bream and prawns, and enjoy it at a harbourside restaurant.

Public buses reach both places, but connections are slow, so many visitors combine them on a guided half-day tour from Valletta or the resort areas, often together with the temples of Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra. If you are driving, the three sites sit within about fifteen minutes of each other, and a day that includes the Blue Grotto in the morning, the temples after, and Marsaxlokk for a late lunch makes one of the most rewarding itineraries in the south.

Families will enjoy the boats and the market, and photographers will love the colour of the harbour, especially in the early morning light. Bring a hat and sun cream for the quayside, and a light jacket for the boat, where spray can be chilly. It is an easy, scenic and very Maltese outing, and a good counterpoint to a trip filled with fortresses and churches.