St Paul’s Catacombs

Just outside the walls of Mdina, in the town of Rabat, lies one of the most extensive networks of early Christian burial chambers in the Mediterranean. St Paul’s Catacombs are a labyrinth of tunnels and rock-cut tombs dug in the third and fourth centuries, when Malta was part of the Roman world. Romans buried their dead outside the town walls, and the soft limestone made it easy to carve underground cemeteries. The complex includes hundreds of graves of different sizes, among them tiny child-sized recesses, as well as family chambers and larger tombs for wealthier families. There are also curious round stone tables known as agape tables, where mourners are thought to have shared funeral meals, and simple carved decoration that hints at the beliefs of the people buried here. Walking through the dim passages is a quiet, slightly eerie experience, a very different way to meet the island’s past from the glittering churches of Valletta. Nearby, St Paul’s Grotto lies beneath the church of St Paul in Rabat. According to tradition, the apostle Paul was shipwrecked on Malta around AD 60 and sheltered in this cave during his stay, and the story is central to Malta’s Christian identity. The grotto has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries and sits beside a small museum. Together, the catacombs and the grotto give a thoughtful, atmospheric half-day that pairs very naturally with a visit to Mdina, and add depth to the story of the island from Roman times through the early Christian era.

The catacombs are cool and mostly level, with some steps and low passages, so they are a pleasant retreat on a hot day, though they can feel enclosed for anyone uneasy in small spaces. Lighting is dim, so bring your phone torch if you like to look closely at the carvings, and wear shoes with grip.

A visitor centre and displays at the entrance explain how the catacombs were used, and an audio guide or a guided tour will help you make sense of what you see. Allow about an hour for the catacombs themselves and a bit more for the grotto and the church above.

Rabat lies directly beside Mdina, a short walk from the main gate, and buses run from Valletta to both. Many visitors do the two on the same day: Mdina in the afternoon and evening for its atmosphere, and Rabat’s catacombs earlier in the day. Guided walking tours that combine Mdina, Rabat, the catacombs and the grotto are widely available, and they are an efficient way to see the sights with context. If you are on your own, a morning visit to the catacombs followed by lunch in Rabat and an afternoon in Mdina works well.

Rabat itself is worth a wander, with its busy square and the Maltese pastizzi sold from small shops near the church. Try the pastizzi with ricotta or peas, a local favourite, and look out for the local sweets and the old-fashioned bakeries.

For anyone interested in Roman Malta and early Christianity, the catacombs are a highlight, and for families with curious older children, the passages and the agape tables are memorable. Give yourself time, because the context repays the effort: this is the place where Malta’s pre-Knights history becomes tangible, and it makes a thoughtful companion to the Hypogeum and the Neolithic temples.