Alexandre Dumas made it famous, but the Château d’If was real long before Edmond Dantès was thrown into its dungeon. François I ordered the fortress built in the early 16th century on a tiny islet about a kilometre and a half off Marseille, to guard the approach to the port. It was never needed for war, and instead became a state prison where Protestants, political prisoners and rebels were locked away, the wealthy in cells with windows and fireplaces, the poor in dark holes below. Today you climb the stairs to the courtyard, walk through the cells, including the ones dedicated to the novel’s Dantès and Abbé Faria, and come out on the terrace for a magnificent view back to the city, Notre-Dame de la Garde and the mountains behind. The same shuttle boat continues to the Frioul archipelago, the two larger islands of Ratonneau and Pomègues joined by a breakwater, with a small harbour, footpaths across bare white rock and quiet coves for swimming in summer. This page links to the Tiqets Château d’If page, which sells the monument entry ticket and combinations with the Mucem.
How to visit: boats leave from the Vieux-Port, at the corner of the Quai de la Fraternité, the Quai des Belges and the Quai de Rive Neuve. La Métropole le Bateau, formerly Frioul If Express, runs year-round shuttles to If and Frioul, and Icard Maritime adds If sailings from Easter to All Saints. The boat fare is separate from the monument ticket, and a combined return to both If and Frioul is available. The château is closed on Mondays and closes at 17:00 outside the April to September season, so check the boat times and leave enough time on the island before the last return.
What to expect: the crossing to If is short, and an hour to an hour and a half on the island is enough. The quay is exposed, so in strong mistral the boats do not sail; check the operator’s website on the morning of your trip. Frioul has no cash machine and paths are rough, so bring water, cash and proper shoes, and note that pushchairs are hard work.
Making the most of it: go to If first, then continue to Frioul for a walk and lunch by the harbour, returning in the late afternoon for the light on the city. Late-afternoon boats back can fill up, so do not leave it to the last one. In summer bring swimming things for the coves.
What to expect
The experience
A short shuttle boat from the Vieux-Port to a 16th-century island fortress and former prison, with an optional onward hop to the Frioul islands.
Best time
A calm, clear morning from Tuesday to Sunday; the boats do not sail in strong mistral and the château is closed on Mondays.
How long
About an hour to an hour and a half on If, or a half day with Frioul.
Tips
Buy the monument ticket ahead, pay the boat separately at the quay, check the sailing status on the morning of your visit, and bring cash for Frioul.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Fans of The Count of Monte Cristo and anyone wanting the classic Marseille boat trip.
- Families
- Children love the boat, the dungeons and the ramparts; bring snacks and water, as facilities on the islands are limited.
- Couples
- Combine If with a walk on Frioul and a seafood lunch by the island harbour.
- Pair with
- The Vieux-Port before you sail and the Mucem on your return.
- Time needed
- Half a day for If and Frioul, two to three hours for If alone.
Good questions
How do I get to the Château d’If?+
Shuttle boats leave from the Vieux-Port at the corner of the Quai de la Fraternité. La Métropole le Bateau runs all year, and Icard Maritime adds sailings from Easter to All Saints.
Is the boat included in the Château d’If ticket?+
No, the monument entry and the boat are paid separately. A combined return boat ticket covers both If and the Frioul islands.
When is the Château d’If closed?+
It is closed on Mondays, and outside April to September it closes at 17:00. Boats are cancelled in strong mistral, so check on the day.
Was the Count of Monte Cristo really imprisoned there?+
Edmond Dantès is a fictional character from Alexandre Dumas’s novel. The château was a real state prison, though, and cells are dedicated to Dantès and Abbé Faria.
What is there to do on the Frioul islands?+
Frioul has a small harbour, rough coastal paths across white limestone and quiet coves for swimming in summer. There is no cash machine, so bring cash and water.
