Notre-Dame de la Garde

Every view of Marseille has the same punctuation mark: the striped stone basilica on its rocky hill south of the Vieux-Port, with an 11-metre gilded Virgin and Child on top of the bell tower, shining over the sea. Marseillais call her la Bonne Mère, the Good Mother, protector of sailors, fishermen and the city itself. The site has been sacred since a priest built a small chapel here in 1214, and François I added a fort in 1524 whose walls still form part of the foundations. The present basilica was begun in 1853 and consecrated in 1864 to designs by Henry Espérandieu, in a Romano-Byzantine style of alternating white and green stone. Inside, the upper church glows with gold mosaics and marble, while the walls are covered with ex-votos: paintings of shipwrecks and storms, model boats, and plaques of thanks left by people who survived them. Below lies a quieter crypt cut into the rock, and a small museum inside the basilica tells the story of the hill. The terrace around the church is the best free viewpoint in Marseille, taking in the Vieux-Port, the Mucem, the Château d’If, the islands and the hills that ring the city.

How to get there: the walk up from the Vieux-Port takes about 45 minutes and is steep, with the final stretch on stairs, so most visitors ride up and walk down. Bus 60 runs from the Old Port area to the foot of the steps, and the Colorbüs hop-on hop-off and the Petit Train (route 1) both stop at the basilica. There is a car park at the foot of the hill, which fills quickly in summer, and a lift for visitors with reduced mobility. Entry is free, and the basilica is open daily from 7:00 to 18:00.

What to expect: allow an hour to an hour and a half for the upper church, the crypt, the terrace and the museum. It is a working pilgrimage church, so dress modestly, keep your voice down, and note that men are asked to remove hats. The basilica and crypt close to visitors during Mass and other services, and pets are not allowed on the site. The main pilgrimage is on 15 August, when the hill is packed.

Making the most of it: come in the late afternoon in winter, or early in the morning in summer, when the light is soft and the coach groups have not arrived. The mistral, the cold north wind, makes the terrace bracing but also scrubs the sky perfectly clear, which is when the view reaches furthest. Walk down through the quiet streets towards the Vallon des Auffes or the Abbey of Saint-Victor rather than retracing your route.