Chappaquiddick and Mytoi Garden

Chappaquiddick is the Vineyard's small, quiet eastern neighbor, separated from Edgartown by a narrow channel and reached by the On Time ferry, a tiny cable-guided vessel that shuttles across the harbor in a few minutes. The ferry, which carries a handful of vehicles, bicycles and walkers, runs frequently through the season and is famously named because it has no schedule to be late for. Once across, the landscape changes at once: sand roads, scrub oak, salt marsh and long empty beaches. Much of Chappaquiddick is protected land managed by conservation groups, and the area is a favorite of cyclists, birders, surf anglers and walkers. Mytoi, a Japanese-inspired garden created in the middle of the twentieth century, offers ponds, a footbridge, pines and a peaceful path system, and it is managed by The Trustees of Reservations. Farther along, the Cape Poge and Wasque reservations preserve dunes, beaches and a historic lighthouse reachable on foot or by permitted off-road vehicle, with seasonal restrictions to protect nesting birds. Wasque Point is known for its strong currents and fishing, and its beach is prized for solitude. Chappaquiddick is also known for a notorious 1969 incident involving Senator Edward Kennedy at the Dike Bridge, which is a historical footnote that guides sometimes mention. Check the Trustees' website for admission, hours and access rules, since some areas charge fees and some trails close seasonally. Bring food, water and sun protection, because services on Chappaquiddick are minimal.

Go by bike if you can. The crossing is short, the road to Mytoi and Wasque is a pleasant ride, and bicycles avoid the parking problem. Take a picnic, plenty of water and bug spray in summer, and wear sturdy shoes for the garden paths. Check tide and bird nesting restrictions before heading to beaches, and obey signs on dunes and fenced areas.

If you drive, note that vehicle capacity on the ferry is small and lines can form in summer. Off-road driving to the lighthouse requires permits and equipment, so most visitors skip it. A walk to Mytoi, a stroll on a quiet beach and a ride back to Edgartown make a fine half-day.

Photographers will find plenty to shoot. The ferry, the dune grass, the bridge and the garden's pond all make strong images, especially at the low angle of morning light. Birders can expect shorebirds, terns and ospreys in season, and anglers know the area for striped bass and bluefish. Whatever you bring, carry out all trash, stay off the dunes and respect nesting signs.

If you are cycling, choose your route with care: the roads past the ferry are mostly sandy or rough, and sand sections can stall narrow tires, so a sturdier bike is best. Sunset from the far beaches is spectacular, but plan the ride back with time before dark, since the ferry runs on a limited night schedule and there is no lighting on many paths. Pack out what you bring and leave the dunes undisturbed, as they protect the island from storms.