Shibu Onsen and Yudanaka

Shibu Onsen and Yudanaka are twin hot-spring districts in the Yamanouchi valley, and they are the natural base for anyone visiting the snow monkeys. Yudanaka is the railway terminus for the Nagano Electric Railway and has the shops, restaurants and bus connections, while Shibu, a few minutes up the hill, is the atmospheric one: a short, narrow main street of wooden inns, stone steps, steaming drains, tiny shops and lantern-lit alleys. It looks like a film set, and the effect is entirely genuine. Guests wander the lanes in cotton yukata and wooden sandals in the evening, a scene that has been repeated here for centuries. The heart of Shibu is its nine public baths.

Each of the nine soto-yu has its own name, numbered one to nine, and tradition says that visiting all nine in turn brings good health and luck. The baths are small and rustic, with very hot water, and they are generally reserved for local residents and for guests of the village's inns, who receive a key. If you are staying overnight, ask your ryokan how to use them, and take a small towel.

A pilgrimage-style round of the nine baths, collecting a stamp at each, is a favourite activity for guests, and the village also has public foot baths and a hot-spring pond where eggs are boiled. Day visitors can often use a bath at a ryokan or a day-use facility instead, which is a good alternative.

The area is also a stop for food and drink. Look for oyaki dumplings, sweet buns and local craft beer at small shops and breweries, and for soba and tempura at the village restaurants. Cooking and cultural experiences, such as oyaki making classes, are offered on guided tours, and the combination of food, bathing and monkey watching is one of the most popular itineraries in the prefecture.

Getting there is straightforward. The Nagano Electric Railway runs from Nagano Station to Yudanaka in under an hour, and buses connect Yudanaka to Shibu and to Kanbayashi Onsen for the monkey park. The best way to experience the area is an overnight stay, with an early evening soak, a ryokan dinner and an unhurried morning before heading to the monkeys when the crowds have not yet arrived.

Winter is the peak season for snow and monkeys, while autumn colours and the quiet green season are lovely for walking and for fewer crowds. Remember that bath etiquette matters here: wash before entering, keep your towel out of the water, and keep your voice down in the evening lanes.

A few extras help you plan. Evening is the best time for the lanes, when lanterns glow and guests in yukata wander between baths, and the village is quieter after dinner. Many inns lock their doors at a set hour, so confirm check-in and curfew times before you go out. A small towel, a bag for wet items and a little cash for snacks and donations are useful.

In winter, steam from the drains and the snow give the street a fairy-tale look, and spring brings cherry blossoms along the hillside. If you are staying more than one night, you can combine a bath round with a morning at the monkeys and an afternoon at Obuse.