Nozawa Onsen Village

Nozawa Onsen is a compact mountain village in the north of Nagano Prefecture that manages to combine a working hot-spring town with a top-tier ski resort. Steam rises from grates and from the village's hot-spring source, Oyu, where locals boil vegetables and eggs. The narrow lanes are lined with wooden inns, pickle shops and small restaurants, and the sulphur smell of the water hangs in the air. It is a village that grew around its baths rather than around tourism, and that is its charm. Thirteen public bathhouses, called soto-yu, are scattered across the village.

They are run by local neighbourhood associations, are free to use, and keep the village's old custom of communal bathing alive. Each has a different character, from simple wooden huts to more modern buildings, and the water can be very hot, so ease in slowly. Most are marked with signs asking you to bring a small towel, wash before getting in, and respect local etiquette, including no photography inside.

Using them is one of the most distinctive cultural experiences a visitor can have in Nagano, and many guided tours, particularly in winter, include a walk between the baths with a local guide explaining the customs.

In winter the village is a ski resort with a long season and easy access to the gondola from the main street, and the village's reputation for deep snow draws international visitors. It also hosts the fire festival in January, a dramatic event with processions and a blazing shrine structure, which is among the most colourful winter events in Japan.

Reserve lodging well ahead if you plan to attend. In the green season, Nozawa is quieter, with hiking, cycling, local vegetables, and cooler temperatures than the cities, and the pickled greens known as nozawana are a staple for tasting.

Getting there is straightforward. Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Iiyama station, then a bus of about 25 minutes up to the village. Buses are less frequent in the off-season, so check timetables. Staying overnight is the best way to experience the village, with an evening bath, a ryokan dinner and an early morning soak.

A traditional ryokan in the old village is the best base. Bring your own small towel, wear shoes that are easy to take off, and note that bathhouses may close for cleaning at certain times. Combined with the snow monkeys and Shibu Onsen, Nozawa makes the heart of a northern Nagano hot-spring itinerary.

A few extras help first-timers. The village is steep, and the lanes are slippery when icy, so wear boots with a good grip even for a short walk between baths. Bring coins for lockers at the baths and a plastic bag for wet towels. The ski area has a gondola right above the village, and rental shops are easy to find, so you can arrange gear on arrival.

Food is part of the pleasure, with oyaki, pickled nozawana, soba and sweet buns sold at small shops along the main street. Quiet hours matter in the evening, since the village is residential, so keep your voice low when you return from the baths. Staying a second night lets you try different baths at a calmer pace and enjoy a quiet morning stroll before the day visitors arrive.