Shiga Kogen Ski Resort

Shiga Kogen is a vast highland of linked ski areas in the north-east of Nagano Prefecture, set on the slopes of Mount Shiga at heights that give it one of the longest snow seasons in Japan. It is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which means forests, ponds and volcanic scenery are part of the experience as well as the skiing. The slopes are spread across a series of connected areas that you can ski between with a single ticket, with long runs, tree skiing and wide beginner terrain, and the crowds are lighter than at the more famous resorts, which means more space on the hill. It is a good choice for travellers who want substantial snow without the party scene of Hakuba.

Lessons in English are available at several of the resorts, and the beginner areas are well designed for families, with magic carpets and gentle slopes. Intermediate and advanced skiers can explore the higher slopes and the tree runs when conditions allow. The season usually begins in December and continues into spring, with variations by area, and some of the higher lifts stay open when other resorts have already finished, so check each resort for its dates.

A single-day lift ticket plus rental and lessons is a straightforward way to try it if you are staying in the Yamanouchi valley, and many tours combine a morning on the slopes with an afternoon at the monkey park.

The area is also notable in other seasons. In summer the roads open for hiking, cycling and visits to the highland ponds, the mountain air is cool, and the Maruike pond offers a classic scenic walk. Autumn colours are spectacular on the high slopes in late September and October. Because the highest roads close in winter, plan access carefully, and check for road status and chain regulations before you travel.

Dress warmly, because temperatures can be extremely low, and use sunscreen and goggles because the sun reflects off the snow. If you are not a skier, the snowshoe and highland trails and the scenic drives offer another way to experience the plateau, and the proximity to the monkey park makes it a good base for a winter itinerary that mixes sport, wildlife and onsen.

A few extras help you choose and plan. Compare the individual ski areas, since some focus on gentle family slopes while others offer steeper runs and tree skiing, and the single lift ticket usually allows you to move between them. Rental shops operate at the base areas, but popular sizes run out at holidays, so reserve ahead if you can.

Check road and bus status in heavy snow, because the route to the highest areas can close at short notice. Many guesthouses offer simple home-style meals and hot-spring baths, which give a cosy end to a day in the cold. Keep sunscreen and lip balm in your pocket because the altitude intensifies the sun.