Paracas Beaches: Playa Roja, La Mina and Lagunillas

Paracas has some of the most photogenic beaches in Peru, set against desert cliffs and open ocean. Playa Roja takes its name from the rust-red sand that comes from eroded volcanic rock, and its dark red cliffs against turquoise water make it a favourite for photographers. La Mina is a wide, sheltered beach reached by a sandy track, popular for sunbathing in summer. Lagunillas is a small fishing cove with a handful of simple restaurants serving fresh seafood, and a good place to rest between drives. All of them lie inside the national reserve, so a reserve entrance fee normally applies, but the beaches themselves are open to walk and enjoy.

Swimming conditions vary. The Pacific here is cold and can have strong currents, and not every beach is safe for swimmers, so follow local advice and look for signs. La Mina and Lagunillas tend to be gentler, while Playa Roja is better for walking and photography than for swimming. In summer, sunbathers and families spread out along the sand, and the desert behind them turns golden in the afternoon.

Getting there takes a little planning. The beaches are inside the Paracas National Reserve, about a half hour or more by road from the town, and the tracks are sandy in places. Many visitors join a guided reserve tour that stops at the beaches, while others hire a taxi, rent a bicycle or travel with a scooter or buggy tour.

There is little shade, so bring a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water, and carry cash for the reserve fee and any lunch. The wind picks up through the afternoon, so mornings are best for a calm, clear visit. Respect the environment by taking all waste with you and staying on marked tracks.

Each beach has its own character. Playa Roja is the most photographed, with its red sand and dark cliffs, and the colour is strongest in the late afternoon light. La Mina is wide and open, with a sense of space and room for families to spread out. Lagunillas is a small cove with a handful of restaurants, boats pulled up on the sand and pelicans waiting for scraps. Other beaches along the peninsula are quieter still, reached by sandy tracks, and offer solitude for those with transport.

Respect for the environment is vital. The beaches are part of a protected area, so take away all litter, keep off dunes and nesting areas, and avoid disturbing birds. Do not drive on the sand outside marked routes. If you swim, choose areas where locals do, and keep children close, because the Pacific can be rough.

Sun protection is vital as there is almost no natural shade. Consider visiting in the morning for the best light and the calmest wind, and combine the beaches with a guided reserve tour or a sunset stop so that you also learn about the wider landscape.

Plan your day around tides and wind. Low tide exposes wider stretches of sand for walking, while the afternoon wind can whip up spray and dust. Take a plastic bag for rubbish, a light shirt to protect your shoulders and a camera cover. At Lagunillas, ask what the day's catch is before you order, and agree on prices in advance. Picnics are possible, but remember there are few bins, so carry everything out with you.