Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers

From Puerto Natales, a boat sails north up the Última Esperanza Sound, the Chilean fjord whose name means Last Hope, toward two glaciers in Bernardo O'Higgins National Park. The first is Balmaceda, a hanging glacier that tumbles from a peak into the water in a blue-white tongue. The second is Serrano, reached by a smaller boat or a short landing, where a walk along the shore and through lenga forest ends at a viewpoint over the ice and a lake of floating icebergs. On the way you pass cliffs where cormorants nest, waterfalls streaming from the rock and a coastline of snow-streaked peaks that seem to rise straight out of the sea. Sea lions, condors and the occasional dolphin are regular sights, depending on the day. The cruise is a gentler contrast to the walking and driving elsewhere in Patagonia, and it is popular with travellers of all ages. Most departures last around seven hours and include a lunch, often a hearty ranch-style meal at an estancia on the shore, with a glass of pisco or local drink as a welcome. Allow a full day, with a morning departure and an evening return.

Think of the cruise as three chapters. The first is the sound itself, a long, wild channel with snow-capped mountains and the dark, cold water that gives the region its mood. The second is Balmaceda, where the boat stops to let you look at the glacier from a respectful distance, and where you can see how the ice has changed over time, with evidence of retreat in the bare rock on the sides.

The third is Serrano, where you step ashore and walk through the forest to the viewpoint, then return for lunch. Guides tell the story of the region's settlers and ice as you go, and the walk is gentle enough for most people.

Practicalities deserve a moment. The boat is open and exposed, so wear warm layers, a windproof jacket, gloves and a hat, and bring sunglasses and sun cream for the bright reflections off the water. If you are prone to seasickness, sit toward the middle of the boat and think about taking tablets beforehand, as the sound can be choppy when the wind rises.

The park entry fee is usually paid separately, in Chilean pesos or by card depending on the operator, so confirm when you book. Hotel pickup is common in Puerto Natales, and the departure time is often fairly early. Bring your passport if you cross from Argentina.

Think about how it fits into your trip. If you are spending a night or two in Puerto Natales, the cruise combines well with a Torres del Paine day, as the two give you mountains and glaciers in one stay. It is easy for children and older travellers, because the walking is short, which makes it a good option for mixed groups. Compared with the Upsala and Spegazzini cruise from El Calafate, it is smaller in scale and calmer, with a more intimate feel and less crowded decks.

Book ahead in spring and summer, when departures fill up, and keep a spare day in case wind forces a schedule change. Bring a camera with a zoom lens if you have one, because the birds and the ice are both better appreciated up close.