Estancia Cristina and Upsala Glacier

Estancia Cristina is one of the most remote and rewarding day trips from El Calafate. The journey begins with a boat ride from the port on Lago Argentino, sailing north between steep, wooded shores and passing icebergs that have calved from the glaciers at the head of the lake. After about two hours you land at a quiet bay where a historic sheep ranch sits at the foot of the mountains, a place so isolated that it once had to produce almost everything it needed. Visitors usually explore the old buildings and the museum of ranching life, then climb in a 4x4 up a switchback track to a high viewpoint with a sweeping panorama of the Upsala Glacier, one of the largest in the region, flowing toward the lake from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. From the lookout you see the ice, the grey-blue water far below and a wall of peaks that few travellers ever reach. The experience is quieter and less crowded than Perito Moreno, and the dramatic scenery makes it a favourite with photographers and anyone who prefers wilderness to walkways. Plan on a full day, with an early start and a return in the evening.

The estancia itself adds a human story to the scenery. It was a working ranch for much of the twentieth century, supporting a family and a small community in a corner of the park where roads never arrived. Today the old buildings, tools and furnished rooms give a vivid picture of life among the sheep, the wind and the long winters, and a short walk around the grounds adds views of the water and the mountains.

Lunch is often taken in the ranch dining room, with traditional dishes, and there are options for hikes of varying lengths along the valley if you want to stretch your legs.

The viewpoint is the highlight. The climb up the mountainside is done in an open vehicle with a driver who knows the track, and the road passes through changing vegetation before emerging onto an open ridge. From the top you look across to the Upsala Glacier, which has retreated in recent decades and is now seen from a respectful distance.

Wind can be strong and cold at the lookout, so wear a warm jacket, gloves and a hat, and bring sunglasses. A good camera helps, but the view is scale more than detail: the glacier is vast, and the icebergs on the lake look like specks.

A few practical points. The trip is seasonal, running in the warmer months, so check that it is operating for your dates and book ahead, because boat seats are limited. The national park fee is paid separately on most departures, so carry some cash. The crossing can be rough in strong wind, and departures are sometimes changed or cancelled, so give yourself a spare day.

If you are comparing glacier days, Perito Moreno is the iconic, accessible one, the Upsala and Spegazzini cruise offers a boat-based look at several glaciers, and Estancia Cristina offers the quiet, remote and historic version. For travellers who have time for a second glacier outing and enjoy a sense of discovery, it is hard to beat.