Penang Hawker Food Tour

Ask any Malaysian where to eat best and many will say Penang. The island's hawker culture is the product of centuries of Chinese, Malay, Indian and Peranakan cooking, and it is served at open-air stalls, coffee shops and food courts where a plate costs very little. The dishes to know include char kway teow, flat rice noodles stir-fried over fierce heat; assam laksa, a sour fish noodle soup; Hokkien mee, a spicy prawn broth; nasi kandar, rice with curries; roti canai; and cendol, the iced dessert of green jelly, coconut milk and palm sugar. A food tour solves the hardest part, which is knowing where to go and what to order. The popular Penang Plates tour from A Chef's Tour runs about four hours with more than fifteen tastings at eight to nine stops across Little India, Chinatown and George Town, in a group capped at eight guests. Expect a mix of hawker stalls and old kopitiams, with stories about each dish and the people who cook it, and bottled water along the way.

Why take a tour rather than wander alone? Hawker centres can be daunting: queues are long, menus are in several languages and the best stalls may only sell one dish. A guide helps you order, explains ingredients and etiquette, and moves quickly through the line. Small groups also mean you can try more, and vegetarians and people with dietary needs can usually be accommodated if you tell the operator when booking, although choice is smaller, so mention it early.

Plan the day around it. Come hungry, wear light clothes and comfortable shoes, and pace yourself, since fifteen tastings add up to a full meal. Morning tours work well with a late breakfast, while afternoon and evening tours let you combine eating with a walk through the heritage streets. Many travellers book the tour on their first full day, then return to their favourite stalls on their own for the rest of the trip. Most tours do not include alcohol or hotel pickup, so check the details when you book.

Eat well on your own too. Hawker stalls often close on a set day each week or sell out and shut early, and some open only in the evening, so check opening times before you head out. Use cash for small stalls, share dishes so that you can try more, and bring tissues and hand sanitiser, since seating is basic. Drink bottled or boiled water, and try the local coffee, made strong and sweet, and the iced drinks. The tour is also a good way to understand what to order for the rest of your trip.