Long before the great temples near Siem Reap were built, early Khmer kingdoms flourished in what is now southern Cambodia, and the province of Takeo, south of Phnom Penh, still holds some of the oldest surviving religious sites in the country. A full-day tour from the capital is a rewarding way to see them. Instead of crowds and queues you find brick towers, hilltop sanctuaries and rural landscapes of rice paddies, canals and stilted houses, with a guide explaining how this region shaped the culture that later produced the famous monuments. It suits travellers who want to understand where Khmer civilisation began and who enjoy slow travel through the countryside rather than a list of must-see photographs.
How the day works
You travel by road from Phnom Penh into Takeo province, with a driver and guide, stopping at several temple sites and viewpoints along the way. The exact itinerary, which sites are included, the pickup time and whether lunch is part of the package are set out when you book. Roads in rural areas can be bumpy, so allow for a long day in a vehicle with regular stops.
What you will see
Pre-Angkorian and early Angkorian monuments, many built of brick and laterite, sit on hills and in fields around the district. Depending on the route, you may climb steps to a hilltop sanctuary, wander through ruins partly reclaimed by trees and visit working pagodas where monks still live. Local guides often point out inscriptions, carved lintels and the remains of old water systems, and explain how the region once linked trade routes between the delta and the interior.
Making the most of it
Start early, since the climbs are easier before the heat builds. Wear sturdy shoes, a hat and clothing that covers shoulders and knees for the temples, and carry plenty of water and sunscreen. Bring small notes in US dollars or riel for entry fees, snacks and donations, and keep a light layer for the air-conditioned vehicle. Ask your guide about the history of each site, which brings the stones to life.
Who it suits
History buffs, return visitors who have already seen Angkor and want something less crowded, and photographers who enjoy rural light. It is less suited to travellers who dislike long road days or who need step-free access, because several sites involve climbing. Because the trip leaves from Phnom Penh, it fits neatly into a three- or four-day stay, and it makes a good contrast to the city sights of the first days. Pair it with an evening river cruise or a food tour after you return.
Practical extras
Rural facilities are basic, so use the bathroom when you can and carry tissues and hand gel. Mobile reception is patchy in some areas, which makes a printed or saved copy of your confirmation and your hotel's address in Khmer useful. Respect the monks and any ceremonies you pass, ask before photographing people, and carry your rubbish with you so the sites stay clean.
If you are short of time in Cambodia, this is a worthwhile alternative to a long journey north, because it shows a quieter and older chapter of the same story.
What to expect
The experience
A full-day guided road trip to pre-Angkorian temples and hilltop sanctuaries in southern Cambodia.
Best time
Start early in the cool season so the climbs and walking are comfortable.
How long
A full day; check the itinerary when you book.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes and modest clothing, bring water and sunscreen, and carry small notes for entry fees and donations.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers and return visitors who want quieter temples.
- Families
- Good for older children who enjoy history; the long road day suits patient travellers.
- Couples
- A calm, uncrowded day of countryside and ruins.
- Pair with
- A sunset cruise or food tour after returning to the city.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
What are pre-Angkor temples?+
They are Khmer religious sites built before the Angkor period, often of brick, that show the early development of the culture that later built the famous temples.
Is the trip physically demanding?+
There are some steps and uneven paths, and the day is long. A moderate level of fitness is helpful.
Will the temples be crowded?+
Usually not. These sites are far quieter than the main Angkor complex.
What should I wear?+
Shoulders and knees covered for the temples, sturdy shoes, a hat and sunscreen.
Is lunch included?+
Check the itinerary when you book. Local restaurants and roadside stalls are usually available along the route.
