Old Bazaar and Bindhyabasini Temple

Most visitors see Pokhara through the lens of Lakeside, but the city has an older center a few kilometers away, and a morning in the Old Bazaar is the best way to see it. The Nepal Tourism Board describes it as a traditional bazaar and a lively meeting place for traders from various ethnic backgrounds, and says it feels very different from Lakeside. Its temples and buildings closely resemble Newari architecture in Kathmandu, with carved wooden windows, brick fronts and narrow lanes, and the contrast with the cafes of the lake is striking. Shops sell spices, cloth, brass, household goods and religious items, and the atmosphere is that of a place where people come to shop rather than to be seen. The focal point is Bindhyabasini Mandir, one of Pokhara's most important shrines. It stands on a shaded plinth with a white dome, overlooking a wide stone-paved courtyard, and is dedicated to the goddess Bhagwati, a form of Durga. Worshippers come to make offerings throughout the day, with the busiest times in the morning, and the courtyard is a good place to sit and watch the rhythm of devotion. Entry to the area is free, and the temple is an active place of worship, so dress modestly and behave with respect.

The best way to visit is on foot, after a short taxi ride from Lakeside. Start at the temple in the morning, when the courtyard is lively but not crowded, then wander the lanes of the bazaar, where small shops and workshops have operated for generations. Look up as well as ahead: the carved windows and balconies of the older buildings are the best examples of the Newari style in the city.

Bring small change for offerings or purchases, and be ready to bargain gently in the shops, since prices are not always fixed. If you enjoy photography, ask permission before photographing people, and follow signs about photography at the shrine itself.

Etiquette is simple and worth following. Remove your shoes where indicated, cover your shoulders and knees, avoid touching offerings and move clockwise around shrines if you are walking the courtyard. Leather items and cameras are restricted in some Nepali temples, so check signs and ask if you are unsure. Festivals bring extra crowds and extra color, and the temple area becomes a busy gathering place on major religious days, so check the local calendar if you want to see it at its liveliest or avoid the crush. Outside festivals it is calm and unhurried.

What else can you do nearby? The bazaar is a good place to try snacks and tea from local vendors, to buy spices, cloth and small gifts that are cheaper and more authentic than lakeside souvenirs and to understand how Pokhara functions as a market town for the surrounding hills. Combine the visit with a cooking class, where you can use spices you have just bought, or with a morning at the International Mountain Museum for a full cultural day.

It is an easy half-day outing that works in any weather, so it is a good plan for a cloudy morning when the mountains are hidden. Leave time to sit with a cup of tea and watch the street, because that is where the Old Bazaar is at its best.