Aix-en-Provence is the old capital of Provence, a city of fountains, squares and townhouses that is best explored on foot. The tree-lined Cours Mirabeau, about 440 metres long and 42 metres wide, links the southern districts to the old town and is lined with four fountains, including the large Rotonde fountain of 1860 and the moss-covered hot water fountain fed by a spring at 18 degrees. To the north the Bourg Saint-Sauveur district stands on the site of the Roman town, between the cathedral and the clock tower, whose astronomical clock dates from 1661. Place d'Albertas, created in 1745, is one of the most graceful small squares. Access to the old town is free, and a fruit and vegetable market is held at the Corn Exchange each morning. Cézanne is the city's most famous son, but his studio at Les Lauves has been undergoing restoration, so check whether it is open before planning a visit.
Start at the Rotonde fountain at the western end of the Cours Mirabeau and walk its length, looking up at the mansions with carved doorways. At the Hotel de Ville, the clock tower and the Corn Exchange you reach the old town proper, where lanes lead to the cathedral, with the former archbishops' palace beside it, and to a string of grand private mansions. The tourist office publishes a walking route marked by small bronze Cézanne plaques in the pavement, which is a useful way to see the artist's places without entering a museum.
In November Aix is lively, with students and locals filling the cafes, and the air is mild compared with the north. The morning produce market is the best time to see the squares at work, and the shops stay open all week. Because the Cézanne studio at Les Lauves is closed for restoration, the Musée Granet and the cathedral are the indoor stops to consider, and you can check their hours with the tourist office. Evenings are atmospheric, with lit fountains and the sound of water in the lanes.
Aix is about an hour from Avignon by car and is reachable by train and bus connections that vary, so check times. It suits a day trip or a night's stay, and it is the one city in this guide where a hotel in the old town is truly walkable to everything. Allow half a day for the old town and the Cours Mirabeau, longer if you linger in cafes and boutiques.
What to expect
The experience
A free self-guided walk along the Cours Mirabeau and through the old town squares, fountains and mansions.
Best time
Morning for the produce market, and at dusk when the fountains are lit.
How long
Three to four hours with a cafe stop.
Tips
The Cézanne studio at Les Lauves has been under restoration, so check before you go and plan on the old town and a museum or cathedral instead.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who wants elegance, cafes and fountains in one walkable city.
- Families
- An easy, flat stroll, with fountains to watch and plenty of cafes.
- Couples
- Dusk on the Cours Mirabeau, then dinner in the old town.
- Pair with
- Arles and the Carrières des Lumières, or Avignon.
- Time needed
- Half a day.
Good questions
Is the Cézanne studio open?+
No. The Atelier des Lauves has been undergoing restoration works, so check its status before you plan a visit. The old town and its Cézanne walking route are open to everyone.
Is the old town free?+
Yes. Access to the old town, its squares and the Cours Mirabeau is free. Museums charge their own entry fees.
Is there a market?+
A fruit and vegetable market is held at the Corn Exchange each morning. Larger markets run on set days, so check with the tourist office.
How far is Aix from Avignon?+
About an hour by car, with train and bus links. Check the timetable on the day.
What are the best landmarks?+
The Cours Mirabeau, the Rotonde fountain, the clock tower, the cathedral and the Place d'Albertas.
