Camargue 4x4 Safari from Arles

South of Arles the Rhône splits into its last branches and spreads into the Camargue, a flat, watery landscape of lagoons, reed beds, salt pans, rice fields and open grassland that runs to the Mediterranean. It is one of the largest river deltas in western Europe and a protected regional park, and it is home to three animals that define the place: the small white Camargue horses, the black bulls raised on the ranches and the flamingos that gather on the shallow lakes. A 4x4 safari is the most practical way to see it, because many of the best tracks between the lagoons are unpaved and closed to ordinary traffic, and a guide knows where the animals gather and how to approach without disturbing them. Departing from Arles, the tour makes a good change of pace after days of Roman stone and hill villages.

A typical safari lasts about four hours and follows sandy tracks through the marshes and between the ranch fields. You stop often to watch and photograph from the vehicle or from the edge of a track, and the guide explains how the delta works: how the herds graze half wild, how the gardians, the Camargue cowboys, still work the bulls on horseback, how rice is grown in flooded fields and how salt is harvested in the pans near the coast. Many tours pass through or near Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the small seaside town whose fortified church is the focus of a pilgrimage each May, and some include a stop at a ranch or a taste of local products such as the rice and the wines grown in the sand.

Birdlife is the other attraction. Flamingos are present across much of the year, with the largest numbers in spring and summer, and the delta is also a stopover for herons, egrets, avocets and many other species, so keen birdwatchers should bring binoculars. Spring and early summer bring wildflowers and nesting birds, autumn is quieter and clear, and winter can be windy and cold but empty.

The mistral blows across the open land with nothing to stop it, so a windproof layer is useful in any season. In summer the delta is hot and the mosquitoes are a real nuisance, so bring repellent and light long sleeves.

Practical points help. Closed shoes and a hat suit the dusty tracks, and a camera with a zoom lens makes more of the distant birds than a phone. Tours have set start times, so be on time at the meeting point, and check whether your departure is shared or private and what languages are offered.

The animals are not trained to be photographed, so the guide may be unable to guarantee close views of every species, but most visitors see horses, bulls and flamingos on a normal trip. Travelling with children is straightforward because the vehicle does most of the work, and the open-sided views and the animals keep younger visitors interested.

The Camargue fits easily into a stay in Arles. Many people combine it with the Roman monuments and the Van Gogh trail in the morning, then spend the afternoon on the delta, or do the safari first and finish with a walk through the old town. The walled medieval town of Aigues-Mortes lies at the western edge of the delta and is a good addition if you have a car, and a stop for local specialities such as bull stew and rice dishes makes a satisfying meal after the tour.

If you are based in Avignon, Arles is a short train ride away and the departure point is close to the station.