Lavender Fields of Valensole

The Valensole plateau is the largest lavender-growing area in Provence, a high, open tableland of fields, almond trees and small farms that sits to the east of Aix-en-Provence and the Luberon. In summer the fields turn a deep purple in long straight rows that curve over the low hills, with the sound of bees, the smell of the flowers and the pale limestone farmhouses standing in the middle. This is the landscape on a thousand postcards, and seeing it in person is one of the real pleasures of a summer trip. A guided tour removes the problems of the visit: the plateau is large and roads between the fields are narrow, so having a driver who knows which fields are in bloom, where it is safe to stop and which villages are worth a pause makes the day much easier than trying to find the best fields alone.

Lavender flowers from late June to early August, with the peak usually in the first half of July, and the exact timing moves from year to year with the spring weather. Outside that window the plateau is still attractive, with golden wheat, almond orchards and open skies, but the purple rows are cut or bare, so a lavender tour makes sense only in the summer months.

Tours typically start from Aix-en-Provence, take about an hour to reach the plateau and spend several hours among the fields, stopping at viewpoints, a working farm or distillery, and sometimes a village such as Valensole itself or Riez. Check the dates the tour runs, since it follows the bloom.

A good tour explains what you are seeing. True lavender grows at higher altitude and has a finer scent, while the bigger, bushier lavandin, a hybrid, covers much of the plateau and blooms slightly later; both are harvested for essential oil, soap and perfume, and a distillery visit shows how steam pulls the oil from the cut flowers.

Many farms sell honey, oil, sachets and dried bunches, which make better souvenirs than most things sold in town shops. Farmers ask visitors to stay out of the rows, since walking through the plants damages them and disturbs the bees, so the usual approach is to photograph from the field edge or from the paths that are open to visitors.

Practical points shape the day. The plateau has almost no shade, so a hat, sunscreen and water matter, and the middle of the day in July is hot. The best light for photographs is early morning or the last two hours before sunset, when the colour deepens and the crowds are thinner.

Mid-morning and early afternoon are the busiest times at the famous fields near the main road, and a guide will often choose quieter spots. Some visitors are sensitive to the scent or to pollen and bees, so bring any medication you normally need. Footwear should be comfortable, because the tracks are dry, dusty and uneven.

The plateau combines naturally with other places in the area. The Gorges du Verdon lie to the east and share the same lavender season, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is known for its faience pottery, and the village of Riez has Roman columns standing in a field. If you are based in Avignon, the Luberon and the area around Sault and the Abbaye de Sénanque offer lavender closer to home, and the Sénanque view of the abbey surrounded by purple rows is among the most photographed scenes in the region.

A tour from Aix is the simplest way to reach Valensole itself without a car.