Alerce Andino National Park

Alerce Andino National Park protects one of the last large stands of alerce, a slow-growing conifer that can live for several thousand years. The trees tower over a landscape of lakes, rivers, ferns and moss, and walking among them has a hushed, cathedral-like quality. The park lies south of Puerto Montt and is reached by road, with the main visitor area at Sargazo Lagoon offering trails of varying length. The shortest paths are gentle boardwalk loops that suit all abilities, while longer routes climb to viewpoints and pass waterfalls. The most famous tree, known as the Alerce Milenario, is a huge trunk that has stood for well over a thousand years. Wildlife includes the small pudú deer, foxes, forest birds and, rarely seen, the puma. The park is a quiet alternative to the busier volcano sights and is excellent for those who enjoy forests, photography or simply a peaceful walk.

Alerce, or Fitzroya cupressoides, was heavily logged for its rot-resistant wood, which was used for shingles on Chiloé houses and churches, and the species is now protected. Cutting living trees is prohibited, and visitors see the survivors in places such as this park. The reddish bark and enormous trunks are unlike any other tree in the region.

The weather is damp, so a rain jacket is a must at any time of year. The park has campgrounds and a few refuge-style facilities, and the trails are well marked. Entrance fees are modest and paid at the gate, and the park is open year-round, although some roads may be affected by rain.

Most visitors combine the park with Puerto Montt or a day from Puerto Varas, and the drive is around 60 to 90 minutes each way depending on the route. A guided visit gives more insight into the forest and the conservation story, but independent travellers can explore the main trails comfortably.

Plan the visit with the trails in mind. The easy Laguna Sargazo loop is the best choice for families and short stays, while the longer path to the Alerce Milenario takes you to the oldest trees and rewards you with a sense of deep time. Boardwalks protect tree roots, so stay on them, and do not touch the bark, which is fragile. The forest floor is wet, mosses are slippery and the light is dim, so a head torch is unnecessary but good shoes are essential.

Rain is frequent, which keeps the lakes full and the colours rich, and fog among the trees creates a photographer's paradise. Bring a picnic, as services are limited, and plan your return before dark. Combine the park with Puerto Montt or Calbuco Island, or join a guided hike that explains the ecology of this rare temperate rainforest.

The park fee supports trail maintenance and conservation, and rangers can tell you which routes are in best condition. Sunrise and late afternoon bring mist among the trunks, which is lovely for photography. Children enjoy spotting the giant trees and counting the rings on fallen logs displayed near the visitor area.

A short drive from the park entrance, small cafes and farm shops sell honey, jam and bread, which make a sensible stop for a picnic on the way back to the road.