Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park

Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park is the green heart of the Chilean Lakes. Created in 1926 and named for the nineteenth-century government agent who organised German colonisation in this region, it covers hundreds of square kilometres of the Andean foothills east of Puerto Varas. Within its boundaries are the Osorno volcano, the Petrohué Falls, Lake Todos los Santos, the Puntiagudo and Casablanca peaks and the border pass toward Argentina. The forest is cool temperate rainforest, with giant ulmo, coigüe and tepa trees, bamboo thickets and ferns that glow in the damp light. Walking trails range from short boardwalk strolls near the falls to demanding day hikes such as the Paso Desolación crossing and the climb to the La Picada viewpoint. Park access is simple, since the main road ends at Petrohué, and there are visitor areas with toilets, food and craft stalls. The park is managed by the national forest service and charges a modest entrance fee, and it is open year-round although some trails and facilities have seasonal limits.

The park is the sum of several experiences rather than a single sight, so it helps to decide what you want. For a classic first visit, take the road to the Petrohué Falls and the Osorno viewpoint, then continue to the lake at Petrohué for photographs. For a half-day walk, choose the short trails around the falls or the forest paths near the lakeshore. For a full day of effort, a guided hike to Paso Desolación or La Picada rewards you with big volcanic views. For something different, sail across Todos los Santos to Peulla.

Wildlife is shy but present. Look for Chilean pudú deer in the deepest forest, southern Andean birds such as the Magellanic woodpecker, and the occasional condor over the high ridges. Weather is the main variable: summer is warmest and driest, while winter is wet and some trails can be closed because of snow or rockfall. After storms, trail conditions change, so ask the park staff or your guide before setting out.

Because the park is large, it helps to think in terms of three zones. The Osorno zone covers the volcano road, lava fields and the high lookout. The Petrohué zone includes the falls, the river and the small village at the western end of Todos los Santos, where boats, restaurants and the main trailheads gather. The Peulla zone lies at the eastern end of the lake and is reached by boat or on foot over long trails.

Each zone has its own character and fees, and a day tour normally covers the first two. Park rangers can offer current advice on trail conditions, and information boards near the main stops explain the geology, plants and animals. Do not feed wildlife, carry out your rubbish and keep to marked trails to protect fragile ground. In winter, check road conditions toward Osorno, since snow can limit access to the upper sections.