Todos los Santos Lake Cruise

Lake Todos los Santos is the most colourful lake in the district, a deep emerald body of water ringed by forest and, on clear days, crowned by Osorno and the Puntiagudo peak. A boat leaves from the village of Petrohué at the western end of the lake and takes about two hours to cross to Peulla, a small settlement at the eastern end that sits against the Andes. The cruise is the signature part of the Cruce Andino, the journey that links Puerto Varas and Bariloche, but it also works as a day trip: you sail across, have lunch and time in Peulla, and return by boat in the afternoon. The route passes the Cayutué and other tributary valleys, inlets where waterfalls spill into the lake and long views toward the border mountains. The water is cold, clear and shaded green by glacial silt, and the boat deck is the best place to be, so bring layers and a camera. Tours from Puerto Varas normally include the road transfer to Petrohué, the crossing and a stop at the falls, with return in the evening.

Peulla is little more than a lodge, a church, a handful of houses and the Chilean border post, but its setting at the foot of the Andes is superb, and the walk to the nearby waterfall in the forest is a short bonus if time allows. Historically the lake was the route that settlers and travellers used to cross the Andes, and in the early twentieth century the journey became a tourist circuit between Chile and Argentina. Today it is one of the most scenic border crossings in South America, still operated as a combination of boat, bus and boat.

The crossing runs year-round, but the quality of the day depends on the weather. Clear days reveal peaks and cones around the lake; rainy days make the forest glisten and the waterfalls loud, though views may be limited. Wind can occasionally lead to schedule changes, and the operators decide on the day, so be flexible. Carry your passport if you plan to continue to Argentina, and carry some cash for lunch or snacks in Peulla.

Think about whether you want the one-day return version or the full crossing to Bariloche. The return trip suits visitors who plan to stay in Puerto Varas, and it can be combined with the Petrohué Falls in the same day. Anyone short of time can still enjoy the sailing portion alone. Food on board is limited, so many travellers bring snacks, and a hot lunch is usually available in Peulla at set tourist prices.

A few details help the day go smoothly. The boats are enclosed with open decks, so you can warm up inside and step out for the best views, and staff sometimes sell snacks and hot drinks. Seats on the left or right make little difference, since the lake is narrow enough to see both shores.

Mobile coverage fades once you leave Petrohué, so download maps and confirm meeting times before you board. If your goal is photography, the first half hour after departure usually gives the clearest view back toward Osorno, while the eastern end of the lake offers dramatic peaks near the border.

Anyone prone to seasickness should know that the lake can be choppy in strong wind, though the crossing is nothing like the open sea. Peulla has a small hotel and a few places to eat, and a short trail leads to a waterfall near the village if the schedule leaves you time to stretch your legs before the boat returns.