Calbuco Volcano Ascent

Calbuco is Osorno's wilder neighbour. Where Osorno is a symmetrical cone, Calbuco is a broken, ash-coloured massif at roughly 2,000 metres that rises south of Puerto Varas, and it is considered one of the most active volcanoes in Chile. In April 2015 it erupted violently with little warning, sending ash high into the sky and across the region, and the landscape around it still shows the effects. A guided ascent combines hiking through forest regrowth with a climb across volcanic sand and rock to the upper slopes, where the guide leads on to the crater area depending on current conditions. The trip described here is a two-day programme, with an overnight stop to shorten the final climb, and gives walkers a very different experience from the neat road to Osorno. The terrain is rough and steep in places, and the views reward the effort with a sweep of Lake Llanquihue, Osorno, the Reloncaví Sound and the Gulf of Ancud.

Access to Calbuco has changed since the eruption, and routes and permits can vary according to the authorities' assessment of volcanic activity. A reputable operator will check current rules and may adjust the route or offer an alternative, which is a sign of good practice rather than a problem. The guides also explain the science: how the volcano is monitored, what the 2015 eruption looked like and how the forest has been recolonising the ash.

This is not a trip for casual visitors. Expect steep ground, loose rock and a significant elevation gain, and plan to carry your own clothes, water and personal gear on the overnight section. The reward is a rarely visited landscape and a perspective on how restless the Andes are. Summer is the most dependable period, but conditions on the upper slopes are always changeable.

If two days is too much, there are shorter guided hikes on the lower slopes and around the Calbuco area, and a boat trip to Calbuco Island offers a gentler look at the same geography. Whatever you choose, confirm the current status of the volcano with your operator and the national emergency service before travelling.

A word on safety and planning. Chile's national authorities publish alert levels for active volcanoes, and operators check them before each departure, so a trip can be postponed even after you have arrived in town. Build a spare day into your schedule if the climb is the centrepiece of your trip. The first day typically follows forest tracks and sandy ash slopes to a camp or refuge, with dinner and sunrise the next morning, and the second day covers the summit approach and descent.

Bring a sleeping bag if the operator does not supply one, a head torch, warm layers and sturdy boots, and travel light, because every kilogram counts on loose ground. Weather on Calbuco can be harsh even in midsummer, with sudden wind and cloud, so listen closely to the guide. Visitors who prefer a gentler look can enjoy views of the volcano from the Lake Llanquihue shore and from boat trips on the Reloncaví Sound.