Paso Desolación means Desolation Pass, and the name fits: the route climbs out of the forest into a high, treeless world of black sand, red rock and wind. A guided trek takes you up through coigüe and ulmo forest, past low thickets of bamboo, and out onto exposed volcanic ground where Osorno's cone sits close on one side and the valley opens on the other. The walk is long, usually five to seven hours, and demands decent fitness and good footwear, but it needs no climbing skills. It is the quiet counterpart to the busy falls, offering silence, space and the sense of a landscape still being shaped by fire. On clear days there are views toward Lake Todos los Santos, the Puntiagudo and the Calbuco volcano, while in poor weather the guide may choose to shorten the route. Tours from Puerto Varas include transport to the trailhead, a guide and usually a packed lunch.
The trail follows an old crossing used by early settlers and travellers who moved between the lakes. Today it lies in a protected area, and guides explain how the terrain changes: the basalt fields from past eruptions, the pioneer plants that take hold in the ash and the moss that makes the forest floor spongy. The pace is steady rather than fast, with stops for water and photographs.
Be realistic about conditions. Weather in the volcano country changes fast, and wind on the high stretches is often strong. Layers are essential, including a waterproof shell and a warm hat, even in summer. Hiking poles help on loose scree, and sun protection matters because shade disappears above the trees. Tours generally run from late spring to early autumn, when the route is clear of snow, and your operator will confirm conditions before departure.
Who should do it
Fit walkers who enjoy a long day and want to feel the volcano rather than just see it. Who should skip it: those with knee problems, limited time or a fear of exposure, who may prefer the lookout road on the Osorno half-day tour. Bring at least two litres of water, snacks and your own rain gear, and wear shoes that you have already broken in.
To make the day enjoyable, begin the preparation before you arrive. Break in your boots on a few walks, pack a lightweight waterproof shell, gloves and a hat, and carry snacks that are easy to eat on the move, such as nuts, fruit and chocolate. Trekking poles are a real help on the steep descent over loose ground, and many operators lend them if you ask. Fill two bottles at the hotel, because there is no reliable drinking water on the high section.
Start times are early, often around 7 or 8 in the morning, so a good breakfast matters. Guides set a steady pace and regroup often, which means slower walkers are welcome as long as they are fit enough for a long day. If the weather is wet or the wind is strong, ask about alternatives, such as a shorter walk in the forest or a visit to the falls, rather than pushing on.
Good to know
The route can be shortened if a member of the group tires, and guides carry first-aid kits and radios. Mobile coverage is weak on the high ground, so tell your hotel when you expect to return. Respect closures announced by park staff after storms or ash events, which can affect the route at short notice.
What to expect
The experience
A guided day hike from the trailhead through forest and onto open volcanic terrain, with a lunch break and return transfer.
Best time
Summer and early autumn, with an early start for steadier weather.
How long
Six to eight hours with transfers; around five to seven hours on foot.
Tips
Wear broken-in boots, carry two litres of water and pack rain gear.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Fit walkers who want a serious day on the volcano.
- Families
- Better for older children who already enjoy long hikes.
- Couples
- Choose a clear morning and start early for the best views.
- Pair with
- A soak in hot springs the next day, or the Petrohué rafting.
- Time needed
- One full day.
Good questions
How hard is the Paso Desolación hike?+
It is a long day with steady climbing on loose volcanic ground. No technical skills are needed but good fitness is.
What should I bring?+
Water, snacks, layers, a waterproof jacket, sun protection and well-fitting boots.
When does the trek run?+
Normally from late spring to early autumn, when the route is free of snow. The operator confirms on the day.
Is a guide necessary?+
It is strongly recommended because weather and trail conditions can change quickly.
Is lunch included?+
Many guided tours provide a packed lunch. Check the inclusions when you book.