Angelmó Market in Puerto Montt

Angelmó is the lively harbour district at the western end of Puerto Montt, and it is the best single place to taste the food of the south of Chile. Along the waterfront road a series of covered markets and stalls sell fish, shellfish, seaweed, smoked mussels and dried goods, while behind the counters are tiny restaurants where the cooks serve plates directly from the cooking pot. Specialties include curanto, a heavy stew of shellfish, meats and potatoes, caldillo de congrio, a conger eel soup made famous by Pablo Neruda, and fresh grilled salmon and hake. The artisan section of the market has woollen sweaters, ponchos, carved wooden objects, copper work and baskets from Chiloé and the Lake District. Out in the cove, small boats, fishing vessels and, on clear days, views across the bay add colour. The market is free to enter, noisy, friendly and a slightly overwhelming introduction to southern Chile, and it works well as a lunch stop before or after a visit to Chiloé or the lakes.

The area is traditionally the departure point for local ferries and small boats serving islands in the Reloncaví Sound, and a few stalls sell tickets to short boat trips to nearby islets. The market has an informal rhythm, with sellers calling out and cooks waving menus. Do not expect polished service; the appeal is the food and the atmosphere.

Seafood is the draw, so it helps to know the vocabulary. Locos, or Chilean abalone, are subject to rules and may be restricted, so ask. Erizos are sea urchins, picorocos are giant barnacles, and choritos are mussels. If you are not sure what to order, ask the cook for the day's special, and compare prices because they vary slightly between stalls. Most places accept cash, and some take cards.

Allow about two hours, including lunch and shopping. Mornings are fresher and calmer, while weekend afternoons are busy. Puerto Montt is about 20 kilometres from Puerto Varas, and a taxi, bus or day tour gets you there easily. If you are travelling to Chiloé, Angelmó makes a good stop on the way, and a city tour often includes it.

A few tactics make Angelmó easier. Walk the full length of the waterfront first, noting menus and prices, before choosing a restaurant. Stall holders often invite you in with a sample or a quick description, and the quality is generally good, but a table with locals eating is a safe sign. Seafood portions are large, so share dishes and add a salad or potatoes. Vegetarians may find the choice limited, although many places can prepare eggs, potatoes and vegetable dishes if asked.

The craft stalls sell wool sweaters, hats and gloves in natural colours, as well as carved wooden toys and copper items, and bargaining is gentle rather than fierce. Keep valuables close in the crowds, and be aware that some seafood, such as shellfish, can be seasonal or subject to harvest bans, so ask the staff about what is available. A short walk from the market leads to the harbour front, where you can watch boats come and go.