The food of the Chilean Lakes is a layered story. German settlers brought bakeries, sausages and cakes, Mapuche-Huilliche and Chilote traditions contributed potatoes, shellfish and smoky stews, and the cold waters of the Pacific supply some of the best seafood in South America. In Puerto Varas you can eat all of it within a few blocks.
Kuchen and bakeries
The signature sweet is kuchen, a German-style cake topped with fruit such as raspberries, apples or murta berries, often served with coffee or tea in the afternoon, a custom called once. Frutillar is famous for its cafes, and Puerto Varas has several bakeries on the main streets. Try a slice of the local cheesecake, called kuchen de queso, and look for rolls and breads made with regional flour.
Seafood
Salmon is farmed throughout the region and appears grilled, smoked or in ceviche. Mussels, clams and oysters are excellent, especially the oysters of Caulín on Chiloé. Look for congrio, the conger eel, served in a light broth called caldillo, and for hake, known as merluza, fried or baked. Sea urchins are a specialty for adventurous eaters. If you are unsure, ask the server what came in that day.
Curanto
The dish most associated with Chiloé is curanto, traditionally cooked in a pit with hot stones, in which shellfish, meats, potatoes and dumplings steam under leaves. Restaurants often serve a pot version called curanto en olla. Angelmó market in Puerto Montt is the easiest place to try it, and it is a hearty meal that suits two people.
Lamb and meat
Patagonian lamb roasted on a cross over open fire is a classic, and you will find it at some restaurants in and around Puerto Varas. Grilled beef and sausages reflect the German influence. Vegetarians can find salads, pastas and vegetable dishes, but menus lean heavily toward meat and fish, so ask in advance.
Potatoes and breads
Chiloé is said to have hundreds of potato varieties, and the humble potato appears in many forms. Milcao and chapalele are potato breads cooked on a griddle or in stews, and you can buy them at markets in Dalcahue and Castro. Sopaipillas, fried pumpkin dough often served with pebre, a fresh chilli and tomato salsa, are a popular snack.
Beer, wine and pisco
Craft beer is a point of pride in the German-influenced south, and Puerto Varas has several breweries and pubs. Chilean wine is easy to find on menus, with good white wines and Pinot Noir from cooler regions. Try a pisco sour, the national cocktail, or the local liqueurs made from berries and herbs.
Practical tips
Meal times follow Chilean habits, with lunch from 1 to 3 pm and dinner often after 8 pm, though tourist restaurants open earlier. Tipping of about ten percent is customary and often added as a suggestion on the bill. Many places accept cards, but small cafes and market stalls may prefer cash. Reserve tables in summer, particularly for dinner on weekends.
Tour days
On long excursions, food stops are part of the programme. Pack snacks, because the lunch stop may not match your appetite, and ask whether lunch is included in the tour price.
Markets and picnics
Farm stands and bakeries around the lake sell honey, cheese, smoked salmon, berries and fresh bread, which make an easy picnic on a driving day. In Puerto Montt, the Angelmó stalls also sell dried seaweed, merkén spice and smoked mussels that travel well. If you are staying in a cabin, shop for fish at the harbour and vegetables at the weekend fairs, where prices are lower and the produce is fresher. Look for local jams of murta, raspberry and rhubarb, and take a jar home. Ask staff about seasonal specialities, since menus change with the catch and the harvest.
Dietary needs
Gluten-free and vegetarian travellers can eat well with advance notice, but kitchens may be less familiar with strict requirements. Say clearly what you cannot eat, and expect that bread, pastry and fried foods are widespread. Allergy cards in Spanish are a useful backup, and larger restaurants and hotels are generally helpful.
Coffee and tea
Good coffee is widely available in Puerto Varas, though instant coffee still appears in some small places. Afternoon tea with cake is a ritual worth keeping, especially on a wet day.