Chiloé: Ancud, Caulín and Lacuy

This route covers the northern end of Chiloé, a quieter and more rural alternative to the Castro day. After the ferry crossing from the mainland, the tour stops in Ancud, the island's first colonial port, where the old fort and waterfront give a glimpse of Spanish rule and the independence era. It continues to Caulín, a small fishing cove famous for its oysters, and to the Lacuy peninsula, a stretch of shoreline with gentle beaches, farms and birdlife. In Caulín the oyster farms supply restaurants across Chile, and a lunch of fresh oysters or seafood is a highlight. Along the way you pass wooden churches, farmhouses with shingled walls and pastures grazed by sheep and cattle. The tour is a good option for those who want scenery and food without the crowds of Castro, or for those who plan to see the penguins on a separate day. Allow twelve hours, bring a rain jacket and be ready to take your time.

Ancud was the last Spanish stronghold in Chile, falling to the patriots in 1826, and the fort overlooking the bay is a reminder of that history. The town also has a small regional museum, a market and a pleasant waterfront, and the old streets climb up from the harbour. It is a practical hub for travellers heading to the west coast.

Caulín's oysters are a local pride, and the bay is sheltered enough to support farming. The setting is peaceful, with fishing boats at anchor and birds on the mudflats. Many tour groups eat at a simple waterside restaurant, where portions are generous and the quality is high. If you prefer cooked dishes, ask for fish or stew.

The Lacuy peninsula is the island at its most gentle. Walks along the beach reveal shells, driftwood and views to the mainland volcanoes on clear days. Weather may be changeable, so dress in layers. If you want to see more of Chiloé, pair this trip with an overnight in Castro or choose a different day for the penguins.

To enjoy the northern route, begin the day with a good breakfast, since the ferry crossing and first stops come early. In Ancud, the fort of San Antonio overlooks the bay, and a short walk along the seafront reveals fishing boats and the market, where you can buy smoked fish, cheeses and handicrafts. The Regional Museum recounts local history, including the story of the schooner Ancud, which sailed to claim the Strait of Magellan for Chile.

Caulín is a quiet inlet where oyster beds extend across the shallows at low tide, and birdlife, including black-necked swans, is abundant. If oysters are not to your taste, ask for fish, clams or a simple stew. Pack a light waterproof, since sudden showers are common, and keep a camera handy for the farmhouses with their wooden shingles. Return transfers reach Puerto Varas in the evening, so avoid scheduling an early dinner reservation.