Otranto Cathedral and the Mosaic Floor

Otranto sits on the Adriatic coast of Salento, at the far eastern edge of Italy, and its old town climbs behind a harbour and a ring of walls. The main reason to come is the cathedral, which holds one of the most extraordinary floor mosaics in Europe. Created in the 12th century by a monk named Pantaleone, it covers the entire nave and aisles with a huge Tree of Life, populated by animals, mythical beasts, biblical figures, zodiac signs and scenes from medieval legend. It is a wonderful, strange piece of storytelling that rewards a slow walk from one end of the church to the other. The town around it is delightful, with a warm limestone old centre, an Aragonese castle at the harbour, shops selling local ceramics and food, and clear green and blue water lapping at the foot of the walls. Otranto is a long way from Bari, roughly three hours by road, so it suits travellers extending their trip south.

The mosaic is the highlight, and it is best seen with time and patience. The Tree of Life rises from the entrance to the apse, with its branches carrying scenes from the Old Testament, tales of Alexander the Great and King Arthur, and a bestiary of lions, elephants, griffins and sea monsters. Look for the signs of the zodiac and the labours of the months, which show how people in the Middle Ages saw the world.

Wear comfortable shoes and walk slowly, since the floor is protected in places. The cathedral also holds a chapel with the remains of the Martyrs of Otranto, residents killed in 1480 when the town was captured, and the chapel is a place of quiet devotion for many visitors. Dress modestly and respect services.

Beyond the cathedral, wander through the old town to the castle, which sits at the edge of the harbour and is a handsome Aragonese fortress with round towers, and along the walls for sea views. Small streets open into tiny squares, and shops sell ceramics, olive oil and local specialities.

The beaches around Otranto are among the most beautiful in Puglia, with clear water and rocky coves, and the coast road south toward Santa Maria di Leuca is full of lookouts and sea caves. In summer the town is very busy, so mornings and evenings are calmer.

Getting there takes planning. From Bari it is a long day by car or a mix of train and bus, and most visitors reach Otranto from Lecce, which is about an hour away by car, bus or train and a natural base. Others add it to a Salento road trip with Gallipoli and the Leuca caves. If you stay overnight, evenings in the old town are lovely, with a walk on the walls and dinner of fresh seafood. Allow two to three hours for the cathedral and the old town, and more for the beaches.

Guided walking tours are available in town and add useful context on the mosaic and the town's history. Evening is a good time to return to the cathedral square and the lanes, when the heat eases and the old stone shops are lit up. If you can, plan a swim in the clear water the next morning before the beach fills, and finish with a plate of grilled fish or a seafood pasta on the harbour.