Rundāle Palace stands in the flat farmland of Zemgale, about an hour and a half’s drive south of Riga, and nothing in the surrounding fields prepares you for it. It was built in the 1730s for Ernst Johann von Biron, Duke of Courland, to a design by Bartolomeo Francesco Rastrelli, the Italian-Russian architect who also created the Winter Palace in St Petersburg. The result is a vast yellow and white palace with Baroque and Rococo interiors, among them the gilded Golden Hall, the Throne Room and the White Hall, rich in carved stucco, painted ceilings and tiled stoves. Left to decay in Soviet times, when it served as a granary and school, the palace has been under restoration since the 1970s, and visitors can now walk through a sequence of restored state rooms, the ducal apartments and exhibitions on the history of the building. Behind it lies a formal French-style garden, with a rose garden that is one of the highlights of summer.
What to expect
The palace is large and the rooms flow from the grand state apartments in one wing to the more intimate private rooms in another. Allow around two hours inside, then an hour in the garden. The restoration is still going, so some rooms may be closed or under scaffolding on any given day. Audio guides or a guide from the tour make a difference, because much of the story lives in details of the ceilings and stoves.
The garden
The formal parterres, clipped hedges and fountains were rebuilt from the original plan, and the rose garden, with many varieties, is at its best from June into the summer. In winter the garden is bare but quiet, and the palace itself, usually warm inside, makes a good cold-weather outing. A short walk from the palace is a smaller museum and café in the grounds where you can stop for lunch.
Getting there
The easiest way is a guided day tour from Riga, which often pairs the palace with nearby Bauska Castle and sometimes the Hill of Crosses across the border in Lithuania. If you drive, the road south is straightforward and the palace is signposted. Buses run from Riga to Bauska, but the palace itself is a few kilometres from the town, so a taxi or tour saves time.
Making the most of it
Go early on a weekday for the quietest rooms, check the palace’s seasonal opening days before you set out, and leave room for the garden. Rundāle works best as a full day out, so do not rush it between other sights.
What to expect
The experience
A guided or self-guided visit through the restored state rooms and ducal apartments, followed by a walk in the formal garden.
Best time
A weekday morning, with the rose garden at its best from June through the summer.
How long
A full day including the drive; about three hours at the palace and gardens.
Tips
Check which rooms are open, wear comfortable shoes for the garden and bring a layer, as the halls can be cool.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Baroque lovers and anyone who wants a grand day out of the city.
- Families
- Space to run in the garden; older children enjoy the gilded rooms.
- Couples
- A romantic summer day among the roses.
- Pair with
- Bauska Castle and, on longer tours, the Hill of Crosses.
- Time needed
- A full day with transfers.
Good questions
How far is Rundāle Palace from Riga?+
About 75 kilometres, roughly an hour and a half by road, which makes it a comfortable day trip.
Who built Rundāle Palace?+
It was designed by Bartolomeo Rastrelli for Duke Ernst Johann von Biron in the 1730s, and Rastrelli also designed the Winter Palace in St Petersburg.
When is the best time to visit?+
Summer for the rose garden, though the palace interiors are worth seeing in any season.
Can I visit without a car?+
Yes, on a guided day tour from Riga, or by bus to nearby Bauska and then a taxi to the palace.
How long do I need?+
Allow about three hours at the site, plus travel time, or plan a full day if you add Bauska Castle.
