San Juan Island National Historical Park

San Juan Island National Historical Park tells one of the strangest stories in American history. In 1859, a dispute over a pig that wandered into a potato patch nearly led to war between the United States and Great Britain. The two nations had never settled which channel marked the border, and the island was occupied jointly for twelve years by troops from both sides, who stayed in separate camps and eventually became friendly neighbors. The conflict, called the Pig War, claimed no human lives; the only casualty was the pig. In 1872 Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany, acting as arbitrator, ruled in favor of the United States, and the British departed. Today the park is split into two parts. American Camp, on the southern tip of the island, has open prairie, windswept beaches, a visitor center, remnants of the old fortifications and views toward Cattle Point and the Olympic Mountains. English Camp, on the sheltered northwest side at Garrison Bay, preserves a few original buildings, a formal garden, a blockhouse and a small cemetery, and is the starting point for a hike up Mount Young. The contrast is delightful: American Camp is open, bleak and bracing, while English Camp is wooded, green and gentle. Entry to the park is free, and it is one of the best-value cultural outings in the islands, particularly for families and history lovers. Rangers and costumed interpreters sometimes appear in summer, and the visitor center explains the local story with exhibits and a film.

American Camp rewards slow walking. The grasslands are home to rabbits and red foxes, and eagles and hawks patrol overhead. A trail leads to Grandma's Cove and to the historic Hudson's Bay Company sheep station and the remains of the camp's laundress row, while another heads to the lagoon at Jakle's Lagoon, a good place for birdwatching.

The beaches are rocky and wild, with logs piled by winter storms, and on clear days the Olympic Mountains stand across the strait. The visitor center offers maps, a short film and information on ranger programs, and it is also where you can ask about events, such as demonstrations and reenactments.

English Camp is smaller and more intimate. A short walk from the parking area brings you to the old commissary, barracks, hospital and the formal garden laid out by the Royal Marines. The Mount Young trail climbs through forest and open bluffs to a summit with panoramic views over the islands, Haro Strait and, on clear days, the Cascades.

Allow around an hour for a round trip. The setting at Garrison Bay is peaceful, with picnic spots near the water and herons in the shallows. Hours and ranger programs change with the season, so check ahead, and remember that facilities are modest and food is not sold on site.