Hotel Kalemi

Hotel Kalemi is one of the well-known places to stay in Gjirokaster, a town where the setting matters as much as the room. Spending the night in the old quarters gives you the streets and the castle in the early morning and evening, when day trippers have left, and it is an excellent addition to a coastal trip. A night here makes a natural break between the Riviera and the interior, and it is a good base for exploring the Drino valley.

Gjirokaster's traditional houses are built of stone, with thick walls, small windows and wooden interiors, and several have been converted into guesthouses and small hotels. Rooms may include carved ceilings, shuttered windows and views over the roofs. Facilities vary, so confirm heating, hot water and Wi-Fi when you book, particularly in winter.

Gjirokaster suits a night or two between the coast and the interior. It works well on a route that links Saranda, the Blue Eye and Berat or Tirana, and it pairs well with a seven-day tour of the south. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, while summer days can be hot on the stone and winter nights can be cold, so check heating and bedding when you book.

The streets of the old town are narrow, steep and cobbled, and cars cannot reach every door. Ask for directions and parking advice in advance, and bring a bag that is easy to carry. If you have limited mobility, ask whether the hotel is near the bazaar or high on the hill, because the difference is significant.

In the morning, walk to the castle before it gets hot and the tour groups arrive, then return for breakfast and a visit to a house museum. In the evening, a short stroll leads to restaurants serving regional pies, stuffed vegetables, grilled meat and sweet desserts. Do not rush: the pleasure of Gjirokaster is its slow, atmospheric rhythm.

A single night is the minimum, and two nights lets you add a visit to the thermal springs near Permet or a walk in the Drino valley. Book ahead in spring and autumn, when tour groups pass through.

Plan your time in the town carefully. Arrive in the afternoon, when day-trip crowds thin, climb to the castle for the view and watch the sunset over the Drino valley. Next morning, visit a traditional house before breakfast or after, and leave time for the bazaar. If you are continuing on foot or by taxi, ask your hotel to arrange transport in advance, since the steep lanes make it tricky to find a ride on the spot.