Gjirokaster Old Town and Castle

Gjirokaster, known as the Stone City, is a UNESCO World Heritage town of cobbled lanes and fortified Ottoman houses climbing a steep hillside under a huge castle. It lies roughly an hour inland from Saranda and is the classic day trip from the coast. The old quarters are built almost entirely of grey stone, with slate roofs, deep eaves and tiny windows, and the town is known as the birthplace of the writer Ismail Kadare and of the former dictator Enver Hoxha. Whether you come for architecture, history or atmosphere, Gjirokaster is one of the most distinctive towns in the Balkans.

The old bazaar sits at the bottom of the hill and still has craft shops, cafes and small restaurants selling regional dishes. From there, steep stone streets lead up to the castle, one of the largest in the country, whose walls, towers and cisterns dominate the town. Inside you find an armaments museum, a clock tower and views across the Drino valley to the mountains. A passenger aircraft and a tank on display remind visitors of the Cold War, and the underground tunnels hint at the paranoia of the communist years.

The town's signature tower houses are open to the public in some cases, and visiting one is the best way to understand local life in the Ottoman era. Rooms are organised around a central hall with carved ceilings, hearths, built-in cupboards and a winter and summer floor. A guide will explain the details of each building and the role of defence in family life. The streets are very steep and cobbled, so comfortable shoes are essential, and the hills can be demanding on hot days.

The tour linked here is a guided half-day visit centred on the town. Many other tours add Gjirokaster to the Blue Eye and Lekuresi Castle, which makes a long but rewarding day. If you have your own transport, the drive from Saranda is straightforward, and you can park near the bazaar and walk up. Lunch in a family-run restaurant is part of the experience, and local specialities include stuffed vegetables, pies and sweets made with walnuts and syrup.

Allow at least three hours for the town and the castle, and more if you intend to visit a house museum. Gjirokaster is hot in summer and chilly in winter, with the mountains close above, so dress for the season. Spring and autumn offer the best walking weather. If you can, stay overnight in a guesthouse in the old quarters, when the day visitors leave and the town goes quiet.

If you have more time, look for the smaller details that make Gjirokaster memorable: the carved wooden ceilings in the tower houses, the stone fountains in the lanes, the view from the clock tower and the craft stalls selling woollen goods, copperware and sweets. Early evening is a lovely time, when the heat fades and the stone turns gold. Ask your guide about the local legends, which are told with great enthusiasm.

Take cash for entrance fees to the castle and any house museum, since card machines are not guaranteed. Visitors with limited time should prioritise the castle terraces and the lower bazaar, then add one tower house if energy allows. Bring a hat and water in summer, because shade is patchy on the stone lanes.