Seville Travel Guide
Seville for First-Timers
What to know before you land — which tickets to book, how to beat the heat, how late Seville eats, the festivals that change everything, getting around, staying safe, tourist tax news and the small courtesies that make you a welcome guest.
Seville is one of the most welcoming and beautiful cities in Europe, but it runs on its own clock and its own climate. Lunch is late, dinner later, the afternoons in summer are fierce, and two great festivals in spring turn the city upside down. A little preparation lets you enjoy its rhythm instead of being caught out by it. These are the essentials.
Book the big tickets. The Real Alcázar is the one ticket to buy before you travel: entry is by half-hour time slot, online ticket holders use the Puerta del León entrance, and the morning slots sell out in spring and at Easter. The upper royal apartments are visited on a guided tour for a supplement with limited places. The Cathedral and Giralda are cheaper online than at the ticket office, and the ticket also covers the Church of El Salvador. The Setas de Sevilla, the Casa de Pilatos and flamenco shows are easy to book a day or two ahead, except at peak times. For day trips to Córdoba or Ronda, book trains or tours early for weekends and in May.
Know the free options. The Plaza de España and the Parque de María Luisa are free, as are the lanes of Santa Cruz and Triana and the Archivo de Indias. The Museo de Bellas Artes is free for EU citizens with ID. The Cathedral issues a limited number of free tickets on Sunday afternoons, in person. In 2024, the mayor proposed charging non-residents to enter the Plaza de España; the idea needed national approval and has not been introduced, so the square remains free.
Know the closing days. The Archivo de Indias and the Museo de Bellas Artes close on Mondays, and the Bellas Artes opens only in the morning on Sundays. The Cathedral opens later on Sundays because of services, and hours change for religious events. The Alcázar closes on a handful of holidays and occasionally for official events. Many restaurants close one day a week, and some close for part of August.
Meal times and how to eat. Breakfast is light — coffee and toast with olive oil and tomato. Lunch is the main meal, from about two to four, and many neighbourhood restaurants offer a set menu on weekdays. In the evening, Sevillanos go out for tapas from around eight or nine, and dinner rarely starts before nine-thirty; a restaurant full at seven is full of visitors. Tapas culture is the joy of Seville: stand at the bar, order a few small plates and a cold drink, then move on. Tipping is modest: round up or leave a little for good service.
The heat. Seville is one of the hottest cities in Europe. From June to September, afternoon temperatures regularly pass forty degrees. Plan outdoor sightseeing for early morning and evening, spend the afternoon indoors, drink plenty of water, wear a hat and use sunscreen. Choose a hotel with air conditioning and, ideally, a pool. In compensation, the summer nights are long, warm and lively.
When to go. Spring, from March to May, is the classic season, with orange blossom, warm days and the two great festivals: Holy Week, with its processions of hooded penitents and baroque floats, and the April Fair, a week of flamenco dresses, horses and sevillanas in the casetas. Both are unforgettable and both bring crowds and much higher hotel prices. Autumn, from late September to November, is almost as lovely and calmer. Winter is mild and sunny, with few visitors and short queues.
Money and tax. Seville and the rest of Andalusia do not currently charge a tourist tax on hotel stays. The mayor has repeatedly asked the regional government for one, and the debate continues, but the regional government has so far opposed it; check your booking in case anything changes. Prices for food and drink are reasonable by western European standards, especially in local bars.
Getting around. The old town is best on foot. The airport is linked to the centre by a regular bus and by taxi, which charges a fixed fare; the main train station, Santa Justa, is a short taxi or bus ride from the centre. The Metrocentro tram runs along the Avenida de la Constitución, and there is a metro line serving the suburbs. Cycling is popular, and the public bike scheme and bike lanes make it easy.
Staying safe. Seville is a safe city with little violent crime, but pickpockets operate in crowded places, especially around the Cathedral, in Santa Cruz, during the processions of Holy Week and at the Feria. Keep phones and wallets secure, and be wary of women offering sprigs of rosemary near the Cathedral, who then insist on reading your palm for money; a polite but firm no is enough.
Phones, cards and practicalities. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, though a few small bars and market stalls prefer cash for small amounts. Plugs are the standard European two-pin type. Tap water is safe to drink. Many monuments sell tickets only online or recommend it, so keep a charged phone with your QR codes and a photo ID, since some reduced and free tickets require proof of age, residence or nationality. Public toilets are scarce; cafés and museums are your best bet.
Being a welcome guest. Sevillanos are warm and proud of their city, and a few words of Spanish — buenos días, por favor, gracias — go a long way. Cover shoulders and knees in churches, keep noise down in residential lanes at night, and respect the processions in Holy Week: do not cross through them or use flash. Above all, slow down. Seville rewards those who linger over a tapa, take a siesta, and stay out late in its squares.