The Former French Concession

The Former French Concession is where Shanghai slows down. From 1849 until the 1940s this slice of the city was administered by France, and it kept a different character from the commercial Bund: quiet residential streets lined with London plane trees, European-style villas and apartment buildings, and tiny lanes of traditional shikumen houses. Today the area covers parts of Xuhui and Huangpu districts, and it is the city's most pleasant place to walk, eat and browse. Key streets include Wukang Road, with its historic mansions, the flatiron-shaped Wukang Mansion and a steady stream of cafes, Hengshan Road for restaurants and bars, Anfu Road for boutiques, and Fuxing Park, a French-style park where locals play cards and practise dance in the mornings. Xintiandi, a restored shikumen district now full of upscale restaurants, sits at the eastern edge and Tianzifang, a lane of craft shops, stands nearby. The district has no single entry gate or ticket, which makes it a perfect free half-day. Pick a neighbourhood walk, stop often for coffee or tea, and let the quiet side streets, not the main roads, set the pace.

The appeal is atmosphere rather than a checklist. Many of the buildings are still lived in, so the experience is of ordinary city life going on behind plane trees and old wooden doors rather than a museum display. Look for the carved stone gateways of shikumen lanes, the ironwork balconies of European villas, and signs of recent restoration, as the city has worked in recent years to preserve and reopen historic architecture in the area. Some former residences are open to visitors, including homes associated with Sun Yat-sen and other figures, but opening hours vary, so check before you go.

Working the visit: start on Wukang Road, walk toward Hengshan Road, and take whichever side street looks the most interesting, as the grid is small and easy to navigate. Mornings are best for light, quiet and the park; late afternoon is good for cafes and the first drinks of the evening. The area also hosts good independent food, from small bakeries and noodle shops to modern restaurants, so plan at least one long meal. Weekends bring crowds to the best-known photo spots, especially Wukang Mansion, so go on a weekday if you can.

Practical notes: the district is well served by metro lines 1, 7, 9, 10 and 12, and lots of stops are only a few minutes apart. Taxis and ride-hailing are cheap, though traffic can be heavy in the evening. Bring comfortable shoes, as the best exploring is on foot, and note that some of the most photographed streets are residential, so keep your voice down and respect the privacy of residents.