Battambang is Cambodia’s second city in spirit if not in size, a laid-back riverside town of French-era shophouses, art galleries and rice country about three hours south-east of Siem Reap by road. A day trip packs in the best of its attractions. The headline is the bamboo train, or norry, a flat bamboo platform on wheels that rattles along the old railway track at speed, with a driver who lifts the whole carriage off the line to let oncoming traffic pass. From there, the trip climbs Phnom Sampeau, a limestone hill with temples, views over the plain and the so-called killing caves, where a memorial recalls the Khmer Rouge period in an honest, sobering way. At dusk, millions of bats pour out of a cave at the foot of the hill in a long, dark ribbon across the sky, one of the great natural shows of Cambodia. Many tours also pass colonial buildings and a village where rice paper and fish products are made. It is a long day, but it gives a very different picture of Cambodia from the temples of Angkor.
How to visit
Tours leave Siem Reap early in the morning by minibus or car with a guide and return late in the evening. The drive is long, about three hours each way, with a stop for breakfast or a roadside break. The details of the itinerary, the order of the stops and what is included are when you book. Check the price of the bamboo train and the entry to the hill and the bat cave to see whether they are included, and carry some small cash for tips and drinks.
What to expect
The bamboo train is short but memorable, a rickety ride of a few kilometres along the old tracks, with the wind in your face and farmland rushing past. The train is now mainly a tourist attraction, since the old line has been replaced by new rail, but it remains great fun. Phnom Sampeau is a short drive from the town, and the climb to the temples and the caves is by steps or by motorbike taxi.
The killing caves are a place of remembrance, with a glass shrine of bones and a guided explanation that is quiet and moving. Your guide explains this period with care, and visitors are asked to be respectful. As the sun sets, you gather near the bat cave to watch the flight, which can last half an hour.
Making the most of it
Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, light clothing and a hat, and bring a camera with a zoom lens for the bats. Carry a rain layer in the wet months and water throughout. The trip is best for travellers who have some days in Siem Reap, because the temples are the main event and Battambang makes a contrasting extra.
It is demanding for young children, so choose a more relaxed day for families. Some travellers prefer to stay overnight in Battambang to enjoy its cafes and galleries and travel back the next day, which makes the pace gentler. Whether you go for the day or stay, bring small notes, respect local customs and take time to chat with your guide about everyday life in the province.
What to expect
The experience
A full-day guided trip by road to Battambang, with the bamboo train, the caves and temples of Phnom Sampeau, and the evening bat flight.
Best time
The dry season from November to March for comfortable travel; the bat flight happens year-round at dusk.
How long
A long day of about twelve to fourteen hours, with around three hours of driving each way.
Tips
Start early, wear good shoes, carry water and small cash, and treat the killing caves as a place of remembrance.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers with time to spare who want to see a different side of Cambodia beyond Angkor.
- Families
- A long day that is tiring for young children; better for older children and teenagers.
- Couples
- An adventurous change of scene with the bat flight as the highlight.
- Pair with
- Allow a rest day after the trip, or stay overnight in Battambang and return the next day.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
How long does it take to get to Battambang from Siem Reap?+
The drive is about three hours each way by road. Tours leave early in the morning and return in the evening.
What is the bamboo train?+
It is a simple bamboo platform on wheels that runs along the old railway track. Drivers lift the platform off the line to let oncoming trains pass.
Is the bat flight guaranteed?+
The bats leave the cave at dusk throughout the year, and the flight is reliably impressive, although the exact timing varies with sunset and weather.
Are the killing caves suitable for children?+
The site is a memorial to victims of the Khmer Rouge period and includes a shrine of bones. Parents of younger children should decide in advance whether it is appropriate.
Is the trip too long for one day?+
It is a long day, but many travellers manage it. Others stay overnight in Battambang to enjoy the town and travel back the next day.
