North of the Balkan Mountains, the limestone landscape around Lovech holds some of Bulgaria’s most unusual natural sights, and a single day trip from Sofia can take in three of them. The first is Devetashka Cave, near the village of Devetaki, an immense cavern on the Osam River whose entrance is so large that it seems to swallow the landscape. The main chamber is huge, with a high roof pierced by openings, and the cave has been used by people since prehistoric times. Today it is also home to thousands of bats and has been used as a film location, which adds to the sense of drama. Walking into Devetashka is humbling. The ceiling rises far overhead, light falls through holes in the roof and the ground is a rough, uneven floor of rock and earth. There are no polished walkways, so the experience feels raw, though the tour follows a safe path and the guide explains the cave’s history, geology and wildlife. Visitors should wear sturdy shoes, since the surface can be slippery, and bring a light layer because the interior is cool. The second highlight is the Krushuna waterfalls, a series of cascades over travertine terraces that form turquoise pools surrounded by moss and trees. A wooden walkway and steps lead around the pools, and in warm weather the setting is cool, green and peaceful. Many tours also stop in Lovech, a charming town on the Osam River known for its covered wooden bridge and its old quarter of Revival-period houses. Together the three stops make a varied and photogenic day, ideal for those who want to see a side of Bulgaria that is natural, rural and far from the usual tourist routes.
What to expect
The day involves a fair amount of driving, around two to three hours each way depending on the route, balanced by short walks at each stop. The walk into Devetashka is on uneven ground, and the Krushuna site involves steps and boardwalks. A moderate level of fitness is enough. Guides speak English, and lunch is often arranged at a local restaurant.
When to go
Late spring to early autumn is the best time, when the waterfalls are full and the pools are at their greenest. In summer the cool air of the cave and the waterfalls is a welcome relief from the heat. Winter visits are possible but the paths can be icy, and the pools lose some of their colour. Check conditions with the operator, especially after heavy rain.
Where it fits
It is one of the best full-day options for nature lovers who have already seen Rila and want something different. It can be paired with a night in Lovech or Veliko Tarnovo if you prefer a slower pace, and it makes a good contrast with the city’s museums. Families with children aged six and over often love the bats, the cave and the water.
Good to know
Bring swimwear only if the operator specifically says swimming is permitted, since the pools are protected and conditions vary. Take insect repellent in summer and a rain jacket in spring. Photography is rewarding, but flash can disturb the bats, so use natural light. The cave is a protected area, so follow the guide’s instructions about staying on the path and keeping noise low.
What to expect
The experience
A full-day guided road trip with short walks at a huge cave, a series of travertine waterfalls and the town of Lovech.
Best time
Late spring to early autumn, when the waterfalls are fullest.
How long
Ten to eleven hours including driving.
Tips
Wear grippy shoes, bring a light layer and avoid using flash near the bats.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Nature lovers who want caves, waterfalls and rural Bulgaria in a single day.
- Families
- Children aged six and up usually love the cave and the bats.
- Couples
- A scenic, off-the-beaten-track day with plenty of photographs.
- Pair with
- The Eyes of God cave or a night in Lovech.
- Time needed
- A full, long day.
Good questions
What is special about Devetashka Cave?+
It has one of the largest cave entrances in the region, a huge main chamber with openings in the roof and a colony of bats.
What are the Krushuna waterfalls?+
A series of cascades over travertine terraces forming turquoise pools, reached by a short walk with steps and boardwalks.
How long is the drive from Sofia?+
Roughly two to three hours each way.
Is swimming allowed?+
It depends on conditions and rules; ask your operator before bringing swimwear.
Is it suitable for children?+
Yes for children who enjoy walking; the ground is uneven in places.
