Polonnaruwa was the capital of Sri Lanka from the eleventh to the thirteenth century, after the older city of Anuradhapura declined, and its ruins are among the best preserved in the country. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ancient city sprawls across a plain beside the huge Parakrama Samudra reservoir, built by King Parakramabahu the Great. Visitors wander between the remains of the royal palace, the council chamber, the circular Vatadage relic house with its fine moonstones, brick temples and a quadrangle of shrines. The best known sight is Gal Vihara, a group of four Buddha figures carved from a single granite face, including a reclining Buddha about fourteen metres long. The tour we link is a four-day road trip from Colombo that includes Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Dambulla and Polonnaruwa, which makes it a sensible way to see the ruins as part of a wider loop through the Cultural Triangle and the hill country rather than as an exhausting day trip.
How it works
A multi-day tour of this kind usually runs in a private or small-group vehicle with a driver-guide, with overnight stays in several towns along the route. Itineraries, accommodation standards and what is included, such as meals and entry fees, vary from one tour to another, so read the details before you book. Entry to the ancient city is normally charged separately for foreign visitors and is one of the larger site fees on the island, so budget for it.
The route can be varied to suit your pace, and many travellers combine this with the Sigiriya and Dambulla day trip elsewhere on this site, or replace it with a longer stay in the region.
What to expect
The ruins are spread over a wide area, and the best way to see them is by bicycle, tuk-tuk or car, since the distances are too long for comfortable walking in the heat. The sites are grouped, and a guide helps you make sense of the names, the kings and the architecture. The Quadrangle holds some of the most elegant buildings, and the Vatadage is a favourite for its carved stairways and guardstones.
Gal Vihara is quiet and moving, with the four figures in granite facing the morning light. You will need to remove shoes and hats at religious sites, and the ground can be scorching, so socks help. Troops of toque macaque monkeys roam the grounds, and you should keep food out of sight.
Making the most of it
Start early, since the heat builds quickly and the light is best for photographs in the morning and late afternoon. Allow at least half a day for the main sites, and a full day if you enjoy ruins. Carry plenty of water, wear a hat and light clothes that cover your shoulders and knees, and bring a rain layer, since showers can build in the wetter months.
The ancient city is quieter than Sigiriya, with room to wander, and it pairs nicely with a visit to the nearby cave temples and the rock fortress.
If you are short of time, you may prefer to focus on Sigiriya and Dambulla from Colombo, and leave Polonnaruwa for a longer trip. For those with the time, a loop through Kandy, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya and the hills is one of the classic itineraries in Sri Lanka, and the multi-day format removes the pressure of long, back-to-back drives.
What to expect
The experience
A four-day road tour from Colombo that takes in Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Dambulla and the ruins of Polonnaruwa, with a driver-guide.
Best time
Early morning and late afternoon, when the light is soft and the heat is lower; the drier months are more comfortable.
How long
Four days overall, with half a day to a full day at the ancient city.
Tips
Carry water, a hat and sunscreen, wear modest clothes, and confirm whether site fees and meals are included.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers who want to see Sri Lanka’s medieval capital as part of a wider loop.
- Families
- Suits older children with an interest in history, though the multi-day driving is tiring.
- Couples
- A romantic loop through hills and ruins, with quiet sunrises and varied hotels.
- Pair with
- Sigiriya and Dambulla, the Temple of the Tooth and the Peradeniya gardens.
- Time needed
- Four days for the tour, with half a day to a day at the ruins.
Good questions
What is the best-known sight at Polonnaruwa?+
Gal Vihara, a group of four Buddha figures carved from a single granite face, including a reclining Buddha about fourteen metres long, is the highlight for most visitors.
How should I get around the ruins?+
The site is large, so most visitors go by bicycle, tuk-tuk or vehicle. Bicycles are a popular and pleasant choice in the cooler hours.
Can I do Polonnaruwa as a day trip from Colombo?+
It is a very long way for one day, so a multi-day trip or a night nearby is more comfortable. Sigiriya and Dambulla are the more realistic day trip.
Are entry fees included?+
Often not. Entry for foreign visitors is one of the larger site fees on the island, so confirm what your tour covers.
What should I wear?+
Light clothing that covers shoulders and knees, a hat and sunscreen, and socks for the hot stone at religious sites.
