The Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist dominates the skyline above downtown St. John's from its elevated site on Military Road. Construction ran from 1839 to 1850 under Bishop Michael Fleming, and the cathedral was consecrated in 1855. It was elevated to basilica status a century later. The architect's design is a very early North American example of the Lombard Romanesque Revival, a style drawing on twelfth-century Italian churches, and when it was completed it was described as the largest church in North America. The building is a cruciform plan with a triple entrance, round-arched openings and twin bell towers with pyramidal roofs, and it is faced with local limestone and granite trim. It is the centre of a group of religious buildings that once included a bishop's palace and library, a school, monasteries and convents, and the whole group is recognised as an ecclesiastical district of national heritage significance.
What to do
Walk up from downtown and look at the exterior first, since the scale of the twin towers against the sky is the most striking thing about the building. The approach from the harbour side is steep, so take your time, and look back at the harbour views from the front steps. Inside, the interior is best known for a classically styled high altar, stained glass windows, a Casavant organ installed in the 1950s and an ornate plaster ceiling.
The original plan called for local stone, but the builders used Irish stone, which weathered poorly in Newfoundland's climate and was later replaced, which is a nice story to tell as you look at the walls. Nearby are other buildings in the complex, which give the neighbourhood the feel of a small religious quarter.
Practical planning
This is an active place of worship, so be respectful, keep voices low, avoid walking around during services and dress modestly. Visiting times and access for sightseers vary through the year and around services, so check with the parish before you go, and if the doors are closed, the exterior and the surrounding streets are still worth the climb.
There is no admission fee for the exterior, and donations are welcome if the interior is open. The site is on Military Road, close to Bannerman Park and the heart of the city, so it is easy to fit in between downtown and Signal Hill. Parking on the street is limited, but the walk from Water Street takes only about ten to fifteen minutes uphill.
Fitting it in
Combine the cathedral with a downtown walking tour, or add it to a stroll through the heritage streets around Military Road, where other historic churches and the colourful rows of houses sit within a few blocks. Early morning light on the stone is lovely, and a clear evening shows the towers against the sky from many parts of the city. If you are interested in architecture or the story of Irish Catholic settlement in Newfoundland, give it half an hour or more.
For a quick visit, ten minutes outside and a look at the harbour is enough. It works in any weather, which makes it a good addition to a foggy-day plan. Linger if a service or a choir rehearsal is going on outside the sightseeing hours, since the sound of an organ in a stone building is part of what the cathedral was built for, and sit quietly for a few minutes before you walk back down to the harbour.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit to a historic cathedral and the surrounding ecclesiastical district.
Best time
Any season; check with the parish for visiting times around services, and aim for soft morning or evening light.
How long
Half an hour to an hour, longer if you wander the neighbouring streets.
Tips
Be respectful of services, dress modestly, wear shoes for the uphill walk and bring a layer for the cool interior.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Architecture and history fans who want a quiet, free stop above the harbour.
- Families
- Short and free, though children should be ready to be quiet inside.
- Couples
- A calm break from the pubs, with views back over the harbour.
- Pair with
- The downtown walking tour or a stroll through Jellybean Row.
- Time needed
- Half an hour to an hour.
Good questions
When was the Basilica Cathedral built?+
Construction ran from 1839 to 1850, and the cathedral was consecrated in 1855. It became a basilica about a century later.
Is there an admission fee?+
There is no charge to see the exterior, and donations are welcome when the interior is open. Check with the parish for visiting arrangements.
Can I go inside?+
It is an active place of worship, so access varies around services and through the year. If the interior is closed, the exterior and the grounds are still worth a visit.
What is the architectural style?+
It is Lombard Romanesque Revival, an early North American example that draws on twelfth-century Italian churches, with a cruciform plan and twin towers.
How far is it from Water Street?+
It is roughly a ten to fifteen minute walk uphill from Water Street. The route is steep in places, so wear comfortable shoes.
