Jellybean Row is the name given to the colourful rows of wooden houses on the hillside streets of downtown St. John's, painted in strong shades of red, blue, yellow, green and purple. The palette is part of the Heritage Colours of Newfoundland. The popular story about the colours is that fishermen returning from the fishing grounds painted their houses brightly so that they could spot them through the fog that so often hangs over the city, although local historians offer other explanations, and the real reason is left to the history books. Whatever the cause, the effect is joyful, and the best views are from the streets above the harbour, such as Gower and Duckworth. A short distance away, below Signal Hill and beside the Narrows, The Battery is a fishing neighbourhood of small houses clinging to the rock, with a very different feel from the downtown rows.
What to do
Start downtown and walk the streets that climb from Water Street and Duckworth Street, looking for the best-known rows. Take your time, because the houses are most rewarding when you look along a street rather than at one front, and when you glance back down at the harbour. Then continue up toward Signal Hill and The Battery, which sits at the water's edge beside the harbour mouth.
The Battery has steep, narrow lanes, stairs and houses perched on bare rock, and the lanes lead to views across the Narrows. The streets are residential, so walk quietly and respect private property. Cameras are welcome, but ask before photographing people, and do not step onto porches or into yards.
Practical planning
It costs nothing to walk Jellybean Row, and you can do it at any time, though morning and late afternoon light give the best colour. The streets are steep and often wet, so wear shoes with good grip, and carry a waterproof layer, since weather changes quickly. The Battery is a real community, not a theme park, so parking is limited and the roads are narrow.
A taxi, a walk or a guided tour is easier than driving. In winter, snow and ice can make the lanes slippery, so take extra care. The downtown walking tour includes stories about the houses and the people who lived in them, and is a good way to understand what you are looking at.
Fitting it in
Allow about an hour for Jellybean Row, longer if you add the stairs and lanes of The Battery. Combine it with a stop at the cathedral on Military Road, a coffee on Duckworth Street or a walk up to Signal Hill. Photographers should aim for a clear, bright day, though overcast skies make the colours richer and fog adds atmosphere.
If you are staying downtown, you can drop in at any time of day. If you are short of time, one or two streets on the hillside will give you the feel of the place, and you can leave the rest for a second day.
It is one of the simplest, most characteristic things to do in the city, and the best things in it cost nothing. Pause at a corner, look up and down the slope, and you will see why artists, photographers and visitors keep coming back: the colours, the harbour, the weather and the old wooden buildings all seem to belong together, and the view changes with every hour of light.
What to expect
The experience
A free self-guided walk through residential streets, with steep lanes and harbour views.
Best time
Any season; morning and late afternoon light is best for colour, and fog and overcast skies add atmosphere.
How long
About an hour for the downtown rows, longer with The Battery.
Tips
Wear shoes with grip, carry a waterproof layer, respect residents' privacy and take extra care on icy winter streets.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Photographers and first-time visitors who want the postcard view of St. John's.
- Families
- Free and flexible, though the hills and stairs are tiring for small children.
- Couples
- A relaxed walk with views, coffee stops and good light at the end of the day.
- Pair with
- The Basilica Cathedral or the downtown walking tour.
- Time needed
- One to two hours.
Good questions
Why are the houses so colourful?+
A popular story says fishermen painted their homes in bright colours to spot them through the fog. Local historians offer other explanations, so treat it as a favourite local tale.
Is there a cost to visit?+
No, the streets are public and free to walk. The houses are private homes, so please stay on the streets and respect residents.
Where is The Battery?+
It is a fishing neighbourhood at the foot of Signal Hill beside the Narrows, a short walk or drive from downtown. The lanes are steep and parking is limited.
What is the best time to go?+
Morning and late afternoon give the best light, and a clear day shows the colours well. Fog and overcast skies add atmosphere.
Can I join a tour?+
A downtown walking tour covers the heritage streets and the stories of the houses. It is a good way to learn the history if you prefer a guide.
