Dezerter Bazaar is the beating stomach of Tbilisi, a sprawling covered and open-air market near the central railway station where the city buys its cheese, vegetables, meat, herbs and spices. It is loud, colourful and very local, and a guided food tour is the best way to understand it, because the stalls rarely have English labels and the sellers love to explain. Over a few hours a guide walks you between the stalls and lets you taste as you go: salty sulguni and smoky cheeses, pickled vegetables and the sour plum sauce tkemali, bundles of fresh tarragon, dried fruit pastes called tklapi, walnut sweets such as churchkhela, honey and warm bread from a tone oven. You learn which herbs go into which dish, how to choose a ripe tomato in season and why walnuts and coriander appear in so many recipes. The result is a practical education in Georgian ingredients and a very good lunch.
How to visit
The tour begins at a meeting point near the market, runs for about half a day and ends with a sit-down tasting or a meal depending on the format. It moves at a gentle pace, with plenty of stops, and the group is usually small. Wear comfortable shoes, because the floors can be wet, and bring a bag for purchases. Check when you book what is included, how many tastings there are and whether the final stop is a restaurant. Tell your guide about allergies, because many foods contain nuts and dairy.
What to expect
The market is organised by zones, with fish and meat halls, rows of cheese stalls, a spice section, fruit and vegetable stands and corners of traditional sweets. Your guide will introduce the vendors, many of whom have stood at the same stall for decades, and show you how to taste before buying. Expect to learn the difference between imeruli and sulguni cheese, to try pickled green tomatoes and to see how churchkhela is made from grape must and walnuts.
You may be offered a taste of local wine or chacha, and a stop for freshly baked shotis puri, the canoe-shaped bread, is common. Prices are fair, haggling is relaxed and a smile goes a long way.
Making the most of it
Go early in your stay so you can shop for picnic supplies for the day trips, and go in the morning when the produce is freshest and the crowds are thinner. The bazaar is a rich area for photographs, but ask before photographing people or their stalls.
If you are staying in an apartment, stock up on cheese, fruit and herbs; if you are in a hotel, buy dried fruit and churchkhela to take home. This tour pairs naturally with a cooking class, so you can use what you have learned in the kitchen the same week.
Good to know
The market is cash-based, so bring small notes in lari for buying cheese, honey or dried fruit. Vendors are happy to vacuum-pack cheese for travel, which makes a good souvenir for the flight home. The bazaar can be crowded and hot in summer, so bring water and a hat, and keep valuables secure in busy aisles. Some halls are open daily while others are quieter on Sundays, so ask your guide about the best time to return on your own.
What to expect
The experience
A guided half-day walk through Dezerter Bazaar with tastings at cheese, pickle, bread and sweets stalls.
Best time
Morning, early in your stay.
How long
About four hours.
Tips
Wear comfortable shoes, bring a bag and mention allergies to your guide.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers and curious travellers who want to see everyday Tbilisi.
- Families
- Children enjoy the colours and the free tastes, but the market is busy.
- Couples
- A relaxed, flavourful way to spend a morning together.
- Pair with
- A cooking class to use the ingredients you meet.
- Time needed
- Half a day.
Good questions
Where is Dezerter Bazaar?+
It is near the central railway station in Tbilisi. The meeting point is given when you book.
What will I taste at the bazaar?+
Typically cheeses, pickles, bread, dried fruit and walnut sweets, with sauces and local drinks. The exact stalls vary by day.
Is the food tour a full meal?+
Many guests find the tastings add up to a meal, but check when you book what is included.
When is the best time to go?+
Mornings are best for freshness and thinner crowds. The market is also quieter on weekdays.
Can I buy things on the tour?+
Yes, you can buy cheese, spices and sweets as you go. Bring some cash in lari for small purchases.
