Old Town is where Yellowknife began, and it still feels like the frontier. The neighbourhood started as a gold rush settlement, and when the city's centre moved to the new town in the 1960s, Old Town kept its character: log cabins sit beside designer homes and colourful houseboats, and artists sell their work under floatplane traffic. The best-known street is Ragged Ass Road, a name that makes visitors grin, and the hike up to Pilot's Monument is described by the territory's tourism board as the best view in the city. Murals, public art and heritage plaques tell the story of the area, and a free heritage walking guide is available through the visitor centre. Houseboat Bay, where people live afloat, is a separate stop. You can see it all in a few hours on foot with no ticket, which makes it a good first-day orientation in any season.
Route
Start near the shore, wander along Ragged Ass Road and the lanes behind it, read the plaques, then climb the rock to Pilot's Monument. The Bush Pilot's Monument honours the aviators who opened the north, and the view from the rock takes in the lake, the houseboats and the skyline of the city. Floatplanes land and take off in the bay in open-water months.
Seasonal feel
In summer the lake is alive with boats and floatplanes and the sun hardly sets. In winter the lake freezes and the bay becomes a flat white plain, with snow on the log cabins and a very quiet atmosphere, so dress for deep cold and watch for ice underfoot on the rocks. Early November is often cold and grey with the first ice, which suits a short walk more than a long one.
Tips
Pair a morning walk with lunch in a local cafe, check which cafes and shops are open in the shoulder season, and wear boots with grip on the rock. Together with the Northern Heritage Centre and the Legislative Assembly, Old Town gives a complete half-day of free sightseeing.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk through Old Town's lanes and Ragged Ass Road, then up the rock to Pilot's Monument and out to Houseboat Bay.
Best time
Any season: summer for floatplanes and midnight sun, winter for the frozen bay and a quiet atmosphere.
How long
Two to three hours on foot.
Tips
Wear grippy boots for the rock, check which cafes are open in the shoulder season, and pick up the heritage walking guide from the visitor centre.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Every first-timer, as a free orientation to the city's character.
- Families
- A good outing for children who like houseboats and floatplanes, with gentle walking and one climb.
- Couples
- Sunset or early evening from Pilot's Monument.
- Pair with
- The Northern Heritage Centre, the Legislative Assembly and a dog sledding outing.
- Time needed
- A morning or afternoon.
Good questions
Is Old Town free to visit?+
Yes, you can walk the streets, the rock viewpoint and the bay without a ticket. A heritage walking guide is available through the visitor centre.
What is Ragged Ass Road?+
It is a well-known street in Old Town and a favourite photo stop thanks to its name. The tourism board lists it as a good place for a stroll.
What is the best view?+
The hike to Pilot's Monument is described by the tourism board as the best view in the city. It overlooks the lake, the houseboats and the town.
Can I visit in winter?+
Yes, though dress for deep cold and watch for ice on the rocks. The bay freezes and the atmosphere is very quiet.
How long do I need?+
Two to three hours covers the lanes, the monument and Houseboat Bay. Add time for a cafe stop.
