Nin, Salt Pans and Queens Beach

Nin is one of Croatia's oldest towns, and one of its smallest. Only about fifteen kilometres north of Zadar, it sits on a tiny island in a shallow lagoon, linked to the mainland by two stone bridges. In the early Middle Ages it was the seat of Croatian kings and an important religious centre, and the town carries that history lightly, with a handful of ancient churches, a small museum and a pleasant, quiet main street. Nin is also known for its salt pans, a sandy beach with warm shallow water and a reputation for healing mud. The ninth-century Church of the Holy Cross is often called the smallest cathedral in the world, a tiny stone building that still works as an astronomical calendar, with windows aligned to the solstices and equinoxes.

Walking around Nin takes about an hour. The old town is circular and compact, and the main points include the Church of St Anselm, the Archaeological Museum, the remains of a Roman temple and the statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin by Ivan Meštrović. The statue stands outside the town gate, and tradition says rubbing the big toe of the bishop brings good luck. It is a well worn, polished toe, and queues of visitors line up for it in summer.

The salt pans just outside the town have been producing salt for centuries, using seawater, sunshine and wind. A visitor centre and shop allow you to see how the salt is harvested and to buy salt, salt-based cosmetics and souvenirs. Tours often include a short visit to the salt works with a guide, and some describe the process through the seasons. The surrounding lagoon is also an important habitat for birds, which makes the area attractive for photographers.

Queen's Beach, or Kraljičina plaža, is a long stretch of sandy shoreline with shallow, warm water, ideal for children and for those who prefer sand to pebbles. In summer it fills with families, and cafes and watersports operators set up along the shore. Kitesurfing is popular because of the steady winds. Locals also talk about the mud as therapeutic, and you may see people covering themselves in the lagoon clay.

A combination such as the cabrio tour covering the old town, the house of salt and the royal vineyards gives a good introduction to the area. It is a flexible way to see several stops in a half day and often includes a wine or olive oil tasting at a family-run estate.

Getting there is straightforward. Local buses run from Zadar, taxis are inexpensive, and the road is flat if you choose to cycle. Aim for a morning visit to avoid heat, and plan time for the beach if the weather allows.