Paklenica National Park

Paklenica National Park lies in the Velebit mountain range about forty-five kilometres north-east of Zadar, and it is the country's best known playground for hikers and climbers. Two canyons, Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica, slice into the limestone massif, with vertical walls that rise to around four hundred metres. The area was protected as a national park in 1949, and the combination of rock faces, beech and black pine forests, caves and views of the Adriatic makes it feel like a world apart from the coast just minutes away. The main entrance is at Starigrad-Paklenica, where a gentle trail follows the bottom of Velika Paklenica canyon beside a stream. The walk is easy enough for most fit visitors, yet the scale of the walls above is impressive from the first step.

Walking in Velika Paklenica starts with a wide track that climbs gradually, passing old stone mills, bridges and the remains of mountain farms. After a few kilometres you reach Anića Luka, a hut and a base for climbers. The vertical face of Anića kuk, a famous climbing wall of about 350 metres, rises above, and on busy days you can watch climbers inching their way up.

More ambitious hikers can continue to the cave of Manita peć, a spectacular chamber with stalactites, which can be visited with a guide in season, or on to higher mountain huts and summits.

The park suits several kinds of visitors. Casual walkers can follow the lower canyon for an hour or two and turn back. Serious hikers can spend a full day on mountain trails. Climbers come from across Europe to try routes of all grades. Cyclists enjoy the coastal road along the foot of the mountains. The tickets are inexpensive, and the admission ticket is easy to purchase online or at the gate.

Conditions are the key planning factor. Summer days can be very hot inside the canyon, with little shade on open sections, so start early and carry plenty of water. Spring and autumn are ideal, with comfortable temperatures and good light for photography. Winter brings snow at higher elevations and some trail closures. The strong bora wind that blows down from the Velebit can be fierce, and the weather can change quickly in the mountains.

Combining the park with the beaches at Starigrad makes a good active day. Stop for lunch at a konoba in the village, where grilled meat, fresh fish and local cheese are staples. Alternatively, some tours offer guided hikes in smaller groups with transport from Zadar, which is useful if you do not have a car.

Wear sturdy shoes, bring a hat and sun protection, and carry a map or the park brochure. Follow signs carefully on the higher trails, as weather and rockfall can affect routes.