Šibenik and St James Cathedral

Šibenik is the sort of town that rewards a half day of wandering. About an hour's drive south-east of Zadar, it climbs a steep hillside above a sheltered bay, its medieval centre a tangle of stone lanes, stairways and small squares. The centrepiece is the Cathedral of St James, built between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries entirely from stone, with no brick or wood and no mortar in the main structure. UNESCO inscribed it on the World Heritage list in 2000, and it is considered one of the great Renaissance buildings on the Adriatic. What makes the cathedral unforgettable is the detail. A frieze of seventy-one carved stone faces runs around the apse, each one a portrait of a real person, from kings to ordinary townspeople. Inside, the baptistery, the vaulted roof and the carved doorway add to a sense of craftsmanship that feels almost modern.

The cathedral was designed and built under the direction of Juraj Dalmatinac and later Nikola Firentinac, and the interlocking stone slabs of the barrel-vaulted roof are the technical highlight. Interior visits are usually possible for a small fee, and the cathedral is a living church, so dress respectfully and avoid disturbing services. Outside, the square in front is a pleasant spot for coffee, with the cathedral rising above in pale stone.

Beyond the cathedral, Šibenik has several fortresses, including St Michael's Fortress above the old town, which has been converted into an open-air venue with a terrace and sweeping views. A walk through the old town takes in the Town Hall loggia, small churches, a Renaissance garden and numerous cafes. The atmosphere is quieter and more local than Zadar or Split, and you are more likely to hear Croatian than English in the lanes.

As a day trip from Zadar, Šibenik works well alone or in combination with Krka National Park, because the roads to Krka pass nearby and many tours include both. A private driver-guide tour is the most flexible, allowing you to explore at your own pace, while shared tours are cheaper. If you use public transport, buses link the two cities frequently, and the old town is a short walk from the station.

Plan around two to three hours in the centre, longer if you climb the fortress or stop for lunch. Midday in summer is hot and the stone lanes reflect heat, so start early or visit in the late afternoon. Comfortable shoes are essential, as the streets are steep and polished smooth by centuries of feet.

Good local dishes to try include grilled fish, black risotto and local wine from the surrounding hills. Seafood restaurants along the waterfront serve fresh catch, while small konobas in the old town offer simple Dalmatian cooking.