Harissa

Harissa is a hilltop village above the bay of Jounieh, about twenty kilometres north of Beirut, and it is home to the most famous religious monument in Lebanon: the white statue of Our Lady of Lebanon. Standing on a stone base some six hundred and fifty metres above the sea, the bronze figure was unveiled in the early twentieth century and faces the Mediterranean with arms outstretched. A spiral ramp winds around the pedestal so that visitors can climb to the statue's feet and look across the whole bay. The shrine draws pilgrims of many faiths throughout the year, and especially on the Marian feast days in spring and autumn, when the grounds fill with families, candles and chanting. The journey up is part of the attraction. The Jounieh cable car, known locally as the teleferique, climbs from the seafront through pine and cypress to the sanctuary in a few minutes, giving views of apartment blocks, harbour and mountain. You can also drive up the winding road, which is how most tour groups arrive. Alongside the statue stand a Maronite cathedral and a Greek Catholic basilica, both modern in style, with striking interiors and a calm atmosphere inside.

On a clear day the panorama is superb. The coast curves north and south, the Mediterranean spreads to the horizon and the mountain slopes rise behind. At sunset the light turns the statue gold and the city lights below begin to appear, which is one of the loveliest times to be here if your schedule allows. Haze can hide the view in summer, so mornings and winter afternoons often offer the sharpest outlook. The air is cooler and fresher than at sea level, a welcome relief.

Harissa is almost always combined with Jeita Grotto and Byblos on a single day trip from Beirut, and the Journey of Faith style itineraries also add the nearby shrine of Saint Charbel at Annaya. If you want to visit independently, the cable car station sits in Jounieh, a lively seaside town with restaurants and a busy Corniche, and it provides a more relaxed approach than the road. Check the cable car's operating hours and maintenance schedule before you plan around it.

There is no charge to enter the shrine grounds, and the atmosphere is respectful. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees when you go inside the churches, and keep your voice down. Photography outside is welcome, while some interiors request quiet. The statue is a place of devotion for many, so be considerate of people praying.

Allow about an hour for a visit including the ramp and a coffee at the terrace cafes. Combined with a walk in Jounieh's old souk or a seafood lunch by the bay, Harissa makes a satisfying half day that gives a different side of Lebanon from the ruins and museums.

The terraces near the shrine sell religious souvenirs, small icons and local snacks, and the quiet corners behind the churches offer a good photograph of the statue against the sky. If you travel up by cable car, take a seat by the window for the best view of the bay as you rise above the rooftops of Jounieh.