Belgrade is a large city, but for a first visit the choice is simple: stay in or near the old town, Stari Grad, and you can walk to almost everything worth seeing. The fortress, Knez Mihailova, Republic Square, Skadarlija and the cafes of Dorćol all sit within a twenty-minute walk of each other. The question is which corner of it suits you, and whether a more unusual base across the river appeals. Here are the four areas we recommend, with our pick in each.
Kalemegdan and Knez Mihailova: for first-timers who want the best location
The northern end of the old town, around the fortress, Kalemegdan Park and the top of Knez Mihailova, is the most convenient and atmospheric base in Belgrade, with the sunset views a few minutes away. Square Nine Hotel Belgrade, on leafy Studentski trg, is the city’s splurge: a 45-room luxury hotel with an 18-metre pool, a Sisley spa and a rooftop Japanese restaurant. For a livelier, more affordable stay, Mama Shelter Belgrade sits right at the fortress end of Knez Mihailova, with 125 playful rooms and a rooftop bar that is open all year.
Terazije and Republic Square: for history and grand-hotel style
The southern end of the old town is busier and more urban, the meeting point of the city’s main avenues, with the National Theatre, the National Museum and the parliament nearby. It is also the most convenient base for Vračar, the Tesla Museum and the Temple of Saint Sava. Hotel Moskva, the landmark grand hotel that has stood on Terazije since 1908, is the obvious choice, and its cafe is an institution. Ask for a courtyard room if you sleep lightly, and note that its spa is temporarily closed.
The quieter old town towards the Sava: for calm and design
The streets west of Knez Mihailova, sloping down towards the Sava and the new riverfront promenade, are quieter and more residential, yet still a few minutes from everything. Boutique Hotel Townhouse 27, on Maršala Birjuzova, is our mid-range pick: 21 calm, art-filled rooms and suites, a lounge bar, and one of the highest guest ratings in the city. It suits couples and families who want peace after a day of sightseeing.
New Belgrade by the Danube: for budget travellers and nature lovers
Across the Sava, the Park of Friendship at Ušće is a green, open riverside park with views back to the fortress. ArkaBarka Floating Hostel and Apartments is moored right here, a wooden houseboat with dorms, private rooms and river-view apartments, breakfast included and free bikes for riding along the Danube to Zemun. The old town is about a 20-minute walk across the bridge.
Other areas to know
Dorćol, on the slopes between the old town and the Danube, has the best cafe and bar scene; Vračar is residential and full of local restaurants; Savamala, by the Sava, is the nightlife district; and Zemun is charming but a bus or taxi ride from the centre.
Matching base to trip
For a luxury stay, Square Nine. For a lively, social base, Mama Shelter. For history and a classic address, Hotel Moskva. For quiet design, Townhouse 27. For a budget stay with a view, ArkaBarka.
Practical tips
Breakfast is charged separately at several of these hotels unless your rate includes it, and parking in the old town is limited and usually paid, so arrange it ahead if you drive. Most day tours, including Novi Sad, pick up from central hotels.
